A.Stephen Jordan
responds: I prefer to see the siding nails
driven flush with the surface of the siding. Nails
set and filled are very unforgiving of any movement
or shrinkage in the wall framing. This movement may
cause "nail pops" — the exterior version
of the infamous drywall nail pop. Hardboard siding
should be fastened so the nail head is drawn "snug"
against the siding.
On the other hand, finish nails used to fasten
exterior trim (the brick molding around a door
unit, for example should be set and
filled. DAP’s linseed oil-base
Painter’s Putty (Dap Inc., P.O. Box 277,
Dayton, Ohio 45401; 800/543-3840) is my favorite,
and it works well under an oil-based primer. I add
"whiting" (a thickening powderavailable through
paint suppliers) to this somewhat gooey putty to
make it more workable. If a latex primer is used,
it’s important that the putty be allowed
to dry for a few days before the primer is
applied.
An exterior spackle, like UGL’s 222
Spackling Paste (United Gilsonite Laboratories,
P.O. Box 70, Scranton, PA 18501; 800/272-3235) can
also be used to fill nail holes. Depending on the
weather conditions, either oil or latex primer can
generally be applied the same day over this
product. Exterior spackle shrinks as it dries, but
an experienced painter will allow for this
shrinkage by "overloading" the hole being filled
and sanding any proud material flush after it
dries.
In situations where a latex primer will be
applied immediately after the holes are
filled, I would use Bondo, or some other
quick-hardening two-part automotive body
filler.
I recommend hot-dipped galvanized finish nails
for all trim work that will be filled. Wood siding
should be fastened with stainless steel
ring-shanked siding nails. Though more expensive,
stainless steel nails are cheap insurance against
bleeding and corrosion problems.
Painting contractor Stephen Jordan is the
rehabilitation adviser to the Landmark Society of
Western New York, in Rochester, N.Y.