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Q. I need to run wires through Boise Cascade I-joists. The joists come with prepunched holes, but the holes don’t line up. I’d like to drill some 1-inch holes in the joist webs. Are there any limitations on where these holes can be drilled?
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For heavy loads and long spans, engineered beams are the way to go. In this article, we compare LVL, glulam, and Parallam, plus some new composite beams.
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Drywall codes; back-priming discussion; CAD for Macs; sizing I-joists for clear spans; safety reminder; more
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One way to ensure a dry basement is to coat the foundation with a waterproof membrane. We look at the available options and explain how to prepare for and apply them properly.
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Software for sizing structural components
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The decline in the quality of solid-sawn lumber has led manufacturers to develop a growing variety of engineered lumber substitutes. We look at some of the new materials that are finding their way on to residential job sites.
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Fingerjointed, LSL, and LVL studs may be too expensive to use throughout the house, but they’re ideal for select walls that need extra strength or that need to be perfectly flat and straight. We take a look at what’s available.
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When wood I-joists are used as rafters, connections at the structural ridge and the tops of exterior walls must be detailed properly. An industry troubleshooter explains where to make the cuts and how to install the steel connectors that make for a sound engineered roof.
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For headers and built-up beams, laminated veneer lumber is often a good substitute for steel. Here’s how to store, handle, cut, and fasten this versatile material.
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Wood I-joists differ structurally from solid wood, and so do the rules for cutting, supporting, and fastening them. A manufacturer’s field rep tells how to avoid common I-joist framing mistakes.