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Like most claddings, stucco is not watertight unless it’s properly flashed. A stucco contractor explains how to detail openings, penetrations, and terminations to keep the water out.
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Water leaking through poorly installed flashing and wall penetrations has proved the downfall of many EIFS jobs. A North Carolina plasterer explains how he replaces failed EIFS cladding with a two-coat stucco system specifically designed to prevent moisture damage.
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Making durable patches in stucco finishes is as much art as science. A veteran stucco contractor shows how to use dry dusting, fog coats, and trowel mix plastering both to repair damaged stucco and to blend new stucco work with old.
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In climates that require both heating and cooling, humidity presents special problems for builders no matter what the season. These wall details will prevent damage to finishes and structural components from interior and exterior moisture.
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Getting rid of excess moisture around the foundation is key to controlling this pesky insect, but it may not always be enough. Shields and chemical treatments are still important backup measures, according to this nationally recognized entomologist and termite expert.
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Hot and cold weather are the enemies of a durable stucco exterior finish. But by following these recommendations, you can apply a long-lasting, good-looking stucco finish in almost any kind of weather.
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Thick energy-efficient walls call for special treatment of window jambs and trim. Whether the finish is stucco, drywall, or wood, these three builders have developed details that work.
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U.S. Gypsum removes barrier EIFS from market, Big Apple plagued by exploding toilets, electrocution by crane, low-odor paints
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Q: We will soon be building a stuccoed Tudor-style home. Standard practice in our area is to fasten the wood trim directly to the sheathing, then apply a three-coat stucco to the areas formed by the applied trim. How can the trim-stucco joint be detailed to prevent water infiltration?
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Q: When beveled wood siding is going to be painted, should the nails be set below the surface of the siding and filled, or driven flush with the surface of the siding?