Options for Warm Wood Floors
The goal in designing a radiant system for hardwood floors
is to provide continuous, even heat at as low a temperature as
possible. There are several types of radiant floor systems, and
some work better than others at meeting this goal.
Slab Systems
When I have
my choice, I always prefer a system using thermal mass over a
staple-up system. The mass helps even out temperature swings,
which benefits the wood floor. I see no real differences in
performance between full-thickness slabs and thin slabs poured
over wood framing. With thin slabs, I like Gyp-Crete because
it’s less likely to crack than a Portland cement mix,
though it’s more expensive. Another thermal mass option
we’ve been using is to substitute dry sand for the
Gyp-Crete.
The maximum fluid temperature I use in a concrete or
Gyp-Crete system is 140°F, to keep thermal swings and
possible fracturing in the concrete or Gyp-Crete to a minimum.
The only times the design temperature would need to approach
140°F is if sleepers are laid on top of a slab and the
hardwood flooring is installed on the sleepers, or if plywood
is used to provide a continuous nail base. In general, I prefer
to set the sleepers close together for good nailing, pour the
thin mix in between, and lay the flooring directly over the
slab and sleepers.
Radiant Slab
Whether you install nail-down strip flooring (top) or a
floating laminated wood floor (bottom) over a radiant slab, be
sure to include a moisture barrier on top of the concrete as
well as below the slab. For nail-down flooring, lay a single
sheet of 3/4-inch plywood or a double layer of 1/2-inch plywood
as a nail base.
Radiant Thin Slab
When installing nail-down strip flooring over a thin
slab (top), the author recommends spacing the sleepers 8 inches
on-center to provide good nailing. For wider sleeper spacings,
you can use a plywood nail base, but the fluid temperature may
need to be raised to overcome the plywood’s thermal
resistance. A floating wood floor system (bottom) installs
directly over the thin slab.
Staple-Up
In retrofit
situations, when the wood floor is already in place, or when
the designer, for whatever reason, doesn’t want to pour a
thin slab, my second choice is a staple-up with a reflective
insulating barrier below. This might be foil-faced rigid foam
board or a reflective barrier with batt insulation
underneath.
Reflective Staple-Up System
When installing underfloor radiant heating, the author
staples the tubing directly to the subfloor, then adds an
insulated reflective layer below — either foil-faced foam
board, shown here, or a radiant blanket with batt insulation
below.
Some installers use aluminum plates to help spread the heat
sideways and prevent the "striping" effect. I don’t like
the plates for a couple of reasons: They’re expensive
— about $3 apiece — and they’re noisy when
they’re walked over and when they expand and contract.
I’ve found that as long as I use the reflective barrier,
stapling the tubes directly to the subfloor without plates
works fine. I’ve never had a complaint about striping as
long as the floor is designed with minimum water temperature in
mind.
Another variation of this system, also designed to prevent
striping, is the "suspended tube" approach — where the
tubing hangs an inch or so below the subfloor with the
reflective barrier below. This just makes it harder to install
the tubing with little to gain for the trouble. I’ve seen
this technique misapplied, where the tubing was stapled to the
sides of the joists — which does a good job of heating up
the joist. I prefer the direct contact of the tubing with the
subfloor.
Staple-up systems require slightly higher fluid
temperatures, with the maximum I’d use being around
160°F. Usually, it takes about 130°F to 140°F in
the joist bays to produce an 80°F surface temperature. A
critical factor in designing any staple-up system is to make
sure that the insulation R-value under the tubing is at least
four times as great as the R-value of the materials above the
tubing. The goal is to direct the heat up.
Doug Mossbrook is president of Eagle Mountain HVAC in
Canandaigua, N.Y., specializing in radiant heating
applications. He has installed more than 100 successful systems
with hardwood flooring. Thanks to Joe Jackson of Bristol
Mountain Hardwoods for providing background information for the
article.