Download PDF version (1257.3k) Log In or Register to view the full article as a PDF document.

Sill Replacement

After completing the new interior framing, we tackled the existing sill replacement from the outside. The building had no sheathing, so to expose the sills, we only had to strip the bottom five courses of clapboards and cut the heavy building paper. We removed the oak sill in 12-foot sections, replacing it with a built-up sill made from five layers of pressure-treated 2x8s.

The studs had been mortised into the top of the old sill, so we had to cut the tenons off before installing the new sill. We toenailed the bottom of the studs into the sill, and where the sections of our new sill joined we lapped the top layer over the section before it. After packing voids between the new sill and the top of the foundation wall with nonshrink grout, we stapled up 30-pound roofing paper and re-sided. Finally, we drove GRK screws through the LVLs into the new sill beam from the inside to join the floor framing to the new PT sill.

The new floors were stiff and level, and the new interior wall framing followed suit. This made the finish work much easier, since there are no dropped headers in the ceilings and very little scribing was needed. While packaged in a traditional-looking exterior, the resulting interior space has an open and modern look that would have been hard to achieve if we had tried to make do with the original floor framing.

Keith Fitzpatrick is a remodeler in Barryville, N.Y.