June 1996 Table of Contents

Caulking Joints in Masonry

Where wood and metal meet masonry, a caulked joint is often the only way to keep the water out. Here’s how to ensure durable, waterproof joints. Read more

Getting Burned by a Client: Lessons Learned.

There will always be homeowners who are out to take advantage of unwary builders. These tales of woe may help you see them coming and minimize the harm. Read more

Profiting From Panelized Construction

A Massachusetts builder explains how he uses factory-built panels to lower costs and speed construction of custom homes and additions. Read more

Quiet Bathroom Fans

Moisture problems often develop in bathrooms when homeowners refuse to use noisy bath fans. The solution: fans rated at 1.5 sones or less. We survey the options. Read more

Working With Laminated Veneer Lumber

For headers and built-up beams, laminated veneer lumber is often a good substitute for steel. Here’s how to store, handle, cut, and fasten this versatile material. Read more


Chimney flashing tips, eco-friendly lumber certification questioned Read more

Q&A: Using LVL to Reinforce Existing Beams Q&A: Using LVL to Reinforce Existing Beams

Q: Can laminated veneer lumber (LVL) be used to strengthen existing wood beams? I’ll soon be working on a remodeling project where the existing floor system is supported by an undersized built-up wood beam, and I would like to stiffen the existing beam by bolting LVL material to it. Read more

Q&A: Is Romex Getting Smaller?

Q: After my electrician finished rough wiring the last house I built, I noticed that the Romex (NM) wire he used seemed to have a thinner profile, and the individual wires seemed smaller in diameter than what I was used to. Is the copper wire (or the insulation) getting smaller, or is it just my imagination? Read more

Q&A: Cathedral Ceiling Vapor Barrier

Q: The house I’m building has a cathedral ceiling framed with wood I-joists, continuous ventilation at the soffit, and a continuous ridge vent. The ceiling inside will be T&G pine. I plan to use R-38 Kraft-faced fiberglass batts (which will allow a 1 1/2-inch air space between the roof sheathing and the batts), and would like to apply Tyvek housewrap over the Kraft-faced batts. However, I’m concerned that moisture will accumulate between the batts and the Tyvek. If moisture accumulation isn’t a problem, does it matter which face of the Tyvek is exposed to the room? Read more

Business Forum: Diagnosing Your Business

Understanding your baseline numbers Read more

Legal Column: Limiting Implied Warranty

Watch out for implied warranties Read more

Builder's Library: Collected Wisdom

Tricks from a veteran carpenter Read more

For What It's Worth

Acoustic batts, pretiled shower pan, drywall patching tape Read more

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