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Phase 4: Installing the Newel Post

Launch Slideshow

2. After a dry fit, I covered the blocking with plenty of construction adhesive and slid the post into place, shimming it plumb and then fastening it to the blocking with long structural screws driven in from three sides.

A Contemporary Box Newel Post

Installing the post

A Contemporary Box Newel Post

Installing the post

  • Installation

    1. Before setting the post, I marked the location of the center of the handrail on the landing, then lined up the center of the post with these marks. This helped me locate the blocking needed on the floor and riser for mounting the post.

    http://www.jlconline.com/Images/tmp7358%2Etmp_tcm96-1495301.jpg

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    1. Before setting the post, I marked the location of the center of the handrail on the landing, then lined up the center of the post with these marks. This helped me locate the blocking needed on the floor and riser for mounting the post.

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    Before setting the post, I marked the location of the center of the handrail on the landing, then lined up the center of the post with these marks. This helped me locate the blocking needed on the floor and riser for mounting the post.

  • Installation

    2. After a dry fit, I covered the blocking with plenty of construction adhesive and slid the post into place, shimming it plumb and then fastening it to the blocking with long structural screws driven in from three sides.

    http://www.jlconline.com/Images/tmp7359%2Etmp_tcm96-1495302.jpg

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    2. After a dry fit, I covered the blocking with plenty of construction adhesive and slid the post into place, shimming it plumb and then fastening it to the blocking with long structural screws driven in from three sides.

    600

    After a dry fit, I covered the blocking with plenty of construction adhesive and slid the post into place, shimming it plumb and then fastening it to the blocking with long structural screws driven in from three sides.

  • Installation

    3. Finally, I finished the post with a 912-inch-wide plywood base, mitering the corners and adding a chamfered cap to hide the joint.

    http://www.jlconline.com/Images/tmp735A%2Etmp_tcm96-1495303.jpg

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    3. Finally, I finished the post with a 912-inch-wide plywood base, mitering the corners and adding a chamfered cap to hide the joint.

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    Finally, I finished the post with a 9-1/2-inch-wide plywood base, mitering the corners and adding a chamfered cap to hide the joint.

  • Installation

    4. Later, after I was finished installing the treads, handrail, and balusters for the landing, my painter added the finishing touches.

    http://www.jlconline.com/Images/tmp735B%2Etmp_tcm96-1495304.jpg

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    4. Later, after I was finished installing the treads, handrail, and balusters for the landing, my painter added the finishing touches.

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    Later, after I was finished installing the treads, handrail, and balusters for the landing, my painter added the finishing touches.

The final phase involved fastening the newel post in place and adding the decorative frame-and-panel base to conceal the structural connections. In the accompanying slideshow you'll see how I:

  • Set blocking and cleats on the floor and first stair riser to provide adequate structural support for fastening the newel post in place
  • Fastened the base of the newel so that it won't budge
  • Finished the base of the newel post with panels and chamfered trim

Gary Striegler is a builder in Springdale, Ark.