Applied Eaves

We made a template out of salvaged eaves material for the applied eaves that would not only match the soffit, fascia, and crown molding on the existing house, but would also match the concave flare in the roof plane. Working on site, we used the template and a jigsaw to cut profiles from 2x12s. We laid out the applied eaves at 16 inches on-center—using a 2x4 ledger to keep everything in line—and fastened them off with 10d commons, eight per tail.

We used a double layer of ¼-inch AC plywood to sheathe the flare, running it about 3 inches past the end of the applied eaves so it would catch the crown molding. After laying down a bead of glue, we bent the first piece in place—orienting the grain side to side between the eaves blocks—and fastened it with 8d ring-shank nails.

At the corners, we let the plywood run long, fastened it, and cut the miter in place. After the first layer was installed, we added the second layer, staggering the seams and fastening with nails only.

At the corner, we again ran the plywood long and trimmed it in place.

Once the eaves were fully sheathed, we snapped a line along the edge of the doubled-up plywood and cut a clean edge. Then we pulled the release paper off the Grace membrane and adhered it to the surface of the flare.

Note: Because the roof pitches were unequal but the soffit depth remained constant, the flare appeared to be more pronounced at the steeper roof — the hip bends slightly to the left at the flare. Though it matched the existing roof detail at the other end of the house, it still inspired a little head scratching when we were trying to get the sheathing miters right at the corners.

Having a consistent soffit profile made the fascia and crown molding work go a lot faster. We installed Lifespan solid select for the fascia and clear pine for the crown.

With the trim in place and the dormers framed up, we reroofed the whole building. That involved stripping the rest of the existing roofing from the main house, applying white, factory-painted drip edge at the perimeter, and covering any remaining exposed areas of sheathing with Tri-Flex underlayment. We used Owens Corning Duration architectural shingles, and because the site is fairly windy and the roof pitches are steep, we used the double-nailing pattern recommended for high-wind areas (see “Roofing With Asphalt Shingles,” May/14).

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