Dressing Up a Roll-Up Door

After locking the roll-up door’s steel panels in place on saw horses, the author laid out the stiles and rails for the four identical carriage doors.

The dotted lines indicate where the author will cut through the assembled doors after they have been fastened to the steel panels.

The author glued up the panels from shiplap siding, ripping the edge profile off glue joints and reinforcing them with Festool Domino tenons.

Squeeze clamps pulled the glue-up tight to the bar clamps and helped keep the panels flat.

The author used 5/4-inch stock for the frames, and assembled the stiles and rails with Domino tenons.

The panels fit into 1/2-inch by 1/2-inch rabbets routed in the frames.

Muntins at the top of the doors give the upper panes the look of divided lights.

The panel edges were profiled with a raised panel cutter mounted on a router table.

While fastening the panels to the frames, the author used his story pole to avoid placing screws where the doors would be cut.

The upper panels were made of Douglas fir, which the author stained before installation.

Once the carriage doors were assembled, the author spread construction adhesive on the steel door panels.

Then the carriage doors are clamped in place. Dozens of 3-inch self-tapping coated screws driven through the backs of the roll-up panels into the stiles and rails of the carriage doors join the wood and steel door sections together.

The author cut through the carriage doors using a track-mounted saw for accuracy.

The blade was set with a slight 2-degree bevel for drainage.

The door company used special track-mounting hardware to accommodate the 3 1/4-inch-thick door.

Each of the five roll-up panels weighs 120 pounds.

The assembled door is easily operated by one person, thanks to the commercial-style coil spring counterweight mechanism.

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