We used the brake and a pair of tin snips to form filler pieces that capped the ends of the trough and also covered the remaining exposed roof and the crown-molding cap returns. Where the filler met the trough, we bent a 1/2-inch leg that would form the soldered connection. To install these pieces, we slipped the legs under the liner trough, molded the upper portion to the roof, the crown-molding cap, and the gutter return, and soldered the seams. We then drilled a 3-inch-diameter hole through the copper liner, plywood trough, and pine soffit. Lastly, We slid the drop tube into the gutter trough—it projected about 4 inches below the pine soffit—and soldered the flange to the trough liner.
With the copper work finished, we peeled the paper from the last 12 inches of the peel-and-stick and sealed it to the copper, then nailed off the bottom three shingle courses, being careful not to drive any nails through the copper lining.
We primed frieze, brackets, soffit, fascia, and crown with an alkyd primer; finished with water-based acrylic. Every project has complicating factors; this one was made more difficult by the work that had to be done to compensate for the bowed, sagging wall. I expect the other gutters on the house to be a bit easier and less costly to repair when we return in the spring.