Shoring a Sagging Floor, Images 17-24

As soon as the holes pass inspection, I cut five 18-inch lengths of 1/2-inch rebar for each hole.

I fill the hole about a third of the way and tamp it with a shovel to remove air bubbles.

I position the first three pieces of rebar, setting them on top of concrete fragments, which helps them stay in place. I lay two more pieces of rebar in the opposite direction, and continue adding concrete until the hole is filled.

After the mix sets for few minutes, I screed the surface flat with a straightedge, let the water rise, and broom it off. After another few minutes, I lightly tap the surface with the straightedge, then screed it flush with the slab. In a few minutes I brush off any water that rises and let the concrete cure.

A week passes before I can install the columns. To get a fast measurement, I stack the cap and base plates together on the footing and measure up.

I prop the columns in a stable position (generally on horses, but here I used the basement stairs) and go to work with the cutter and pipe wrench.

Once the steel is cut, the concrete breaks easily. There's usually some concrete protruding that I chip away with a hammer.

I then set the cap on top of the column and angle it into position on top of the base plate, using a sledgehammer for persuasion.

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