Victorian-Style Door Casing

The casing was a built-up treatment using several custom molding profiles.

I made the steps in three successive passes on my table saw.

I used a dado head in the table saw to relieve the back of the casing.

The carpenter who installed the original casing used a jack miter, a combination of a butt joint and a miter, to join the stepped casing stock.

A power miter saw actually adds a step, since you still have to use a hand saw to finish the inside shoulder cut.

The jig holds the casing on edge with only the profiled, mitered portion exposed.

I used a Jorgensen "mini-precision" miter saw mounted on a 45-degree angle block.

I used Titebond's Molding and Trim glue along with pocket-hole screws to hold the joints together.

I produced the profile for the two-piece backband on the router table, first hogging off the waste wood on the table saw.

The backband turns vertically across the head casing for a slightly wider reveal.

A flat, nominal 1x2 cap with a coved edge detail finishes off the crown.

The finished molding

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