I've been wanting to buy a laser level for several years now
but, out of all the lasers on the market, I've been unable to
decide which one would be right for me. There are many
potential applications for a laser in a carpenter's routine,
and just as many questions to answer in order to choose one
instrument that's equal to all of these tasks.
Do I want a tool that shoots horizontal or vertical lines, or
one that does both? What about one that projects two lines
simultaneously at 90 degrees to each other? And what about
dots? I definitely want plumb dots, but for horizontal
applications, would I be better off with dots or lines? I can
have either one with a 90-degree projection option, but do I
want an instrument with a revolving dot instead?
As luck would have it, I was given the challenge of writing
this review. It was probably the only way I was ever going to
pick the right laser for my work, so that's what I set out to
do.
During the course of my research, I discovered that —
even among the mountain of lasers on the market — there
is no perfect tool, although there are several close calls. A
complete review of all the lasers available today would be
nearly impossible, so I limited this article to covering
self-leveling, non-rotating lasers that retail for no more than
$600. (We'll look specifically at rotating lasers in a future
article.) I also limited the coverage to tools that fit the
needs of the general trades — carpenters, plumbers,
electricians, hvac technicians, drywallers, and so forth.
In Search of the All-Purpose
Laser
No matter which trade we're in, most of us would like a laser
that performs a variety of similar functions. A level dot or
line for laying out items such as cabinets, wainscoting,
electrical boxes, and drain lines is surely a must. A split dot
that projects a 90-degree angle is great for all kinds of
squaring-up jobs. A plumb line that connects the floor, wall,
and ceiling is extremely useful for accurate framing, jamb
installations, and locating structural beams, deck piers, and
recessed ceiling lights. Matching right-angle lines simplify
the installation of flooring, tile, and decorative ceilings.
And most of us would like our bright new laser to replace that
old, spinning, swaying plumb-bob.
Dots and Lines
Right from the start, I had a hard time deciding between dot
lasers and line lasers. Until recently, I thought that line
lasers were best for use by flooring and ceiling installers,
but these instruments are just as useful in other applications.
A horizontal line is easier and faster to work to than a dot:
No dot can match the usefulness of a line cast straight across
the floor, up the wall, and back across the ceiling, plumb to
its point of origin.
Unfortunately, the visibility of the line deteriorates rapidly
as projection distance increases. Line levels are excellent in
smaller rooms, like kitchens, closets, and bathrooms, cast on
walls that are within 20 feet of the instrument. But lines
aren't easily visible in brightly lit rooms or large rooms
where the line must be cast farther than 30 feet. And the line
levels I tested were not acceptable for exterior use at
all.
Likewise, most dot levels are barely visible outdoors. But
there are significant differences between individual dot
lasers. Some tools have only one horizontal dot, while others
employ a prism to split the laser and create two horizontal
dots — the second dot at a right angle to the first.
Other tools project three horizontal dots, all at perfect
90-degree angles. One thing that most dot lasers have in common
is that they shoot plumb dots — up, as well as
down.
Judging Quality
There are several characteristics that affect the quality of a
laser. I graded each tool by the following criteria:
Dot size. Dot size varied
dramatically from tool to tool, from 3/32 inch to 1/4 inch, but
seemed to grow smaller as the price increased. Several
manufacturers suggested that dot size wasn't that important,
and that users should simply measure to the "center" of the
dot. But finding the exact center of an extremely bright,
sometimes fuzzy red dot can be difficult. For that reason, the
smaller the dot, the better.
Dot clarity. Some
manufacturers tout the brightness of their dots, while others
claim that their dots are sharper than the next guy's. Both are
subjective claims, relating to the clarity of the dot: Like the
focus on a slide projector, some dots appear fuzzy, while
others are tack sharp. Sharp dots tend to travel longer
distances without degradation. Sharp dots are also easier to
work with and ensure greater accuracy. I graded dot clarity on
a scale of 1 (worst) to 10 (best).
Self-leveling. Although all
the instruments in this review are self-leveling, I discovered
that some dots moved out of level when the tool was jostled or
moved. I therefore tested each tool for "constant"
self-leveling. After placing the tool on a perfectly level
surface and aligning the dot with a premeasured fixed point, I
gradually shimmed the tool out of level until the laser beam or
the safety light blinked or the instrument shut off. I measured
the accuracy of the dot just prior to safety shutoff, and I
measured the size of the shim that produced safety
shutoff.
Dampening. I relied on
subjective terms to evaluate the sensitivity of the pendulum
dampening system (described below) in each tool, and how
quickly it controlled a dancing dot. Systems that brought the
dot to rest quickly were graded Good; I gave a grade of Fair to
those that allowed the dot to dance in 8- to 10-inch orbits
around the target as I walked across the floor of my
raised-foundation home. A dot that jumped violently, skittered
around the target, and remained nervous after I'd walked across
the floor, earned a Poor rating.
Pendulum lock. Self-leveling
lasers calibrate and correct themselves via a swinging pendulum
mechanism. The pendulum levels the tool quickly, which saves
considerable setup time. Most of these tools will self-adjust
if the work surface is within approximately 5 degrees of
level.
The pendulum system is so sensitive that several manufacturers
include a pendulum-locking mechanism on their unit to safeguard
the delicate instrumentation during travel, repositioning, and
storage. Other manufacturers implied that a pendulum lock
wasn't necessary for their tool.
Accuracy
Before testing any of the laser units, I set up my transit in
my living room and established three reference points. I shot
two opposing points across the longest distance (20 feet)
inside my house, and, for each, I marked a fine ink line on
masking tape, exactly at the cross hairs. For testing accuracy
over a 50-foot distance, I opened the French doors in my living
room, swung my transit, and marked the cross hairs by driving a
6d finish nail into a tree in my back yard. I checked the
accuracy of these marks by relocating the transit in a second
position and shooting all three positions again. The error
factor was no more than 1/16 inch. (Although my transit is much
more accurate than any $600 laser level, it takes longer to set
up, occupies too much space in my truck, and can't shoot plumb
lines or project reference points. Lasers have advantages in
these areas.)
To test the lasers, I used a
Stabila elevator tripod equipped with a rotating base. I
leveled the mounting plate with a spirit level, then adjusted
the elevator to align each of the lasers in turn with the first
mark at the end of my hallway. Next, I rotated the tool to
check the second mark and, finally, to the nail in my rear
yard. To double-check the results, I moved the tripod to a
second location and tested each tool again.