Hydronic Heating

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Hydronic Baseboard Basics

Finned-tube baseboard is the most commonly installed hot-water heating system in... More

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Piping Layouts for Hydronic Heat

The design of hydronic heat distribution piping affects overall comfort levels,... More

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Hydronic Radiant Heat for Wood-Framed Floors

You don’t need to pour a concrete slab to get the benefits of radiant heat. An... More

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Sizing Baseboard Heating

John Siegenthaler provides a step-by-step guide to calculating the length of... More

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Air-to-Water Heat Pumps

These advanced systems come with a steep learning curve More

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Hydronic Heating for Low-Load Houses

With the right hardware and layout, hot-water heating saves energy and makes ideal... More

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Hydronic Heating Instruction

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Decoding Efficiency Units for Heat Pumps

Connor Dillon sorts out the differences between SEER, SEER2, HSPF, and COP, all of... More

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How to Read a Manual-J Report

We all have heard of the importance of doing heat load calculations before... More

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Condensing vs. Non-Condensing Boilers

To choose between these two options, you need to understand their differences in... More

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Solving for Comfort With a 'Smart' Thermostat

Tracking temperature, humidity, set point, and equipment runtime can uncover the... More

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Q&A: Closing a House for the Winter

I have customers who wants me to build a log home that will be used seasonally, for about two months of the summer and another two months in the winter. During the rest of the year they want to leave the house closed up and unheated. We're at the edge of the Rocky Mountain Front Range in eastern British Columbia, and winter temperatures often fall to 20F. I've discouraged the clients from installing a hydronic heating system because of the difficulty of draining it twice a year (draining the domestic water will be headache enough), but what other potential problems should I be thinking about? I'm concerned that the radical swings in temperature could damage interior finishes More

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