Expanding a Kitchen

Expanding a Kitchen

Expanding a Kitchen

In the original floor plan, a bearing wall separated the dining room from the kitchen.

Expanding a Kitchen

The first step in combining the two spaces was to provide temporary support for the ceiling and remove the wall in preparation for installation of a flush beam.

Expanding a Kitchen

The double-LVL and steel flitch beam was fastened together with 1/2-inch-diameter bolts 16 inches on-center.

Expanding a Kitchen

A pair of come-alongs rigged in the attic helped hoist it into place.

Expanding a Kitchen

Each end of the beam was supported by a 4-inch-by-6-inch Parallam column.

Expanding a Kitchen

The engineer's plan called for steel reinforcement — plate steel and C-channel — to be bolted to the existing floor joists.

Expanding a Kitchen

Steel reinforcement bolted to the existing floor joists.

Expanding a Kitchen

The old subflooring was replaced with 3/4-inch AdvanTech T&G sheathing glued and screwed to the framing.

Expanding a Kitchen

Carpenters troweled thinset onto a layer of 1/2-inch plywood installed over the AdvanTech sheathing.

Expanding a Kitchen

Workers screwed down 1/4-inch backerboard.

Expanding a Kitchen

The surface was skim-coated and edged with dams and a perimeter expansion joint in preparation for electric heat mats and self-leveling underlayment.

Expanding a Kitchen

Laticrete's electric heat mats are designed to be cut to fit in the field and have a self-adhesive backing that holds them in place; tape and thinset are also useful to hold down edges and wiring connections.

Expanding a Kitchen

While the mats can be covered with thinset, the author prefers to use a self-leveling underlayment.

Expanding a Kitchen

To anchor the hanging peninsula cabinet, a crewmember fastens double 2x6 cleats to the ceiling framing with structural screws and glue.

Expanding a Kitchen

The finished kitchen features custom cherry cabinetry and a tough porcelain tile floor dressed up with stone tile insets.

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