In the original floor plan, a bearing wall separated the dining room from the kitchen.
Expanding a Kitchen
The first step in combining the two spaces was to provide temporary support for the ceiling and remove the wall in preparation for installation of a flush beam.
Expanding a Kitchen
The double-LVL and steel flitch beam was fastened together with 1/2-inch-diameter bolts 16 inches on-center.
Expanding a Kitchen
A pair of come-alongs rigged in the attic helped hoist it into place.
Expanding a Kitchen
Each end of the beam was supported by a 4-inch-by-6-inch Parallam column.
Expanding a Kitchen
The engineer's plan called for steel reinforcement — plate steel and C-channel — to be bolted to the existing floor joists.
Expanding a Kitchen
Steel reinforcement bolted to the existing floor joists.
Expanding a Kitchen
The old subflooring was replaced with 3/4-inch AdvanTech T&G sheathing glued and screwed to the framing.
Expanding a Kitchen
Carpenters troweled thinset onto a layer of 1/2-inch plywood installed over the AdvanTech sheathing.
Expanding a Kitchen
Workers screwed down 1/4-inch backerboard.
Expanding a Kitchen
The surface was skim-coated and edged with dams and a perimeter expansion joint in preparation for electric heat mats and self-leveling underlayment.
Expanding a Kitchen
Laticrete's electric heat mats are designed to be cut to fit in the field and have a self-adhesive backing that holds them in place; tape and thinset are also useful to hold down edges and wiring connections.
Expanding a Kitchen
While the mats can be covered with thinset, the author prefers to use a self-leveling underlayment.
Expanding a Kitchen
To anchor the hanging peninsula cabinet, a crewmember fastens double 2x6 cleats to the ceiling framing with structural screws and glue.
Expanding a Kitchen
The finished kitchen features custom cherry cabinetry and a tough porcelain tile floor dressed up with stone tile insets.