Slideshow: Capping the Veneer

Factory-Made Stone Cap

The prefabricated Pennsylvania bluestone cap comes ripped to 2 3/4 inches wide.

Grinder Cutting

The crew cuts the cap to length with a diamond wheel on a grinder.

Cap After the Fact

The project designer opted for the cap after the project was started, so in areas where they had already started installing the veneer, the crew put the cap on before finishing the field below.

Cleats Hold the Cap

It is easier to install the veneer after the cap is on, so where they hadn’t begun the veneer process, the crew installs temporary cleats for the cap to rest on while the mortar cures. The cap sits on top of the "ledge" formed by the lath-covered rigid foam.

Cap Below the Trim

Where the foundation is not insulated, the crew was able to install the cap directly below the trim.

Mitered Cap

The crew cut miters for the corners. The excess lath extending above the cap is trimmed off after the cap is installed and before the exterior trim and cladding is installed.

Prepping for the Toekick

To create a solid toekick below each door, the crew cuts slabs of Pennsylvania bluestone to fit each spot. For a smooth surface, they remove any chunks of mortar left behind from installing the veneer.

Mortar for the Toekick

Then a layer of mortar is spread on the foundation.

Wet Before Buttering

The crew wets down the back of the toekick before applying mortar, to keep the stone from sucking moisture out of the mortar as it sets up.

Buttering the Toekick

A layer of mortar is then spread on the back of the damp toekick.

Two-Person Lift

Two crew members carefully lift the toekick stone into place below the door.

Temporary Support

After pushing the stone tight against the door threshold, the masons slip in temporary wedges below the toekick to hold it in place until the mortar sets.

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