We sealed the connection to the sill plate with a site-bent flashing. We added a generous bead of Henry Moistop Sealant to the bottom edge of the sheathing, then set the flashing into that. We topped it all with tape and then Henry Blueskin peel-and-stick WRB.
This home had two major renovations in its 46-year existence. We used different approaches to match different circumstances. In this area, a large overhang resulted from adding R-16 to the exterior (the interior of this area remained intact); we air-sealed the overhang with a site-bent flashing and Zip Liquid Flash caulking. Zip Flashing Tape seals the top edge of the flashing and the Zip areas.
A peek under the Zip sheathing reveals a double layer of 2-inch-thick Rockwool Comfortboard 80, for a total of R-16 (5). We used this strategy in areas we did not have access to from the interior. We used foam sealant in any gaps between the Comfortboards to eliminate interstitial convection within the cavity insulation.
At the bottom of this image, a blue Quickflash panel is visible. We detailed most of our electrical, HVAC, and water penetrations with gaskets like Quickflash.
or optimal water and air detailing, we apply Zip Liquid Flash over all nail holes, loose tape, or scratches in the green Zip WRB. In this area, we built the soffit over the Zip R-3. The sheathing connects to the air-sealing layer that travels 1 inch below the roof sheathing. This allows an overroof for airflow.
We added a small roof over a sliding door, and to avoid penetrating the exterior shell with framing to support this projection, I had brackets fabricated that we bolted through the header. Small holes for the bolts are much easier to seal than large framing components. And even though steel conducts heat better than framing lumber, this approach still minimizes thermal bridging.
The envelope ready for siding.