Slideshow: Installing the Window

Flashing the Sill

First, the carpenters set small pieces of Zip System flashing tape at each corner (above left). Then, they ran a length of the flashing tape along the framed sill, adhering it about 1/2 inch onto the top of the existing clapboard below for drainage (above right).

Flashing the Sill

To make the critical sill-to-jamb transition, they installed a second length of Zip System Stretch Tape (above left), run 6 or so inches up the jamb (above right).

Dam Stop and Window Install

A beefy bead of sealant was applied to act as a back dam (above left). Beginning the window installation, the carpenters first set the unit in the opening and marked the sill horns. They then cut out the siding at the horn locations and installed the window (above right).

Securing the New Window

The carpenters leveled the window and held it in place with clamps and blocking (above left). To through-jamb fasten the window, they removed the sashes and popped out the check rail plugs in the middle of the jambs to gain access to the jamb frames (above
right).

Adjustable Top Star Shim Screw

Removing the unit’s check rail plugs allowed the top and bottom jamb filler strips to be slid up and down as needed to secure the unit (bottom left). On each jamb, the carpenters used 3 1/2-inch-long #10 screws at the top and bottom and a GRK adjustable Top Star shim screw in the middle (top left). The shim screws allowed them to micro-adjust the jamb for plumb and straightness (right).

Re-assembling the Window and Air-Sealing

With the window secured, the carpenters reinstalled the frame pieces and window sashes (above left). The head and jambs were air-sealed from the exterior with spray foam (above right).

Jamb and Head Flashing Strips

After the foam cured and was trimmed back as needed, a length of Zip System flashing tape was run up the jambs (butted to the existing clapboards and lapped onto the unit’s frame; photo, left), then a length across the head (photo, right).

Sealing and Trim Installation

When the carpenters re-installed the pediment, they first ran a bead of sealant along its edge where the clapboards met the pediment legs and along the unit’s frame. Then they slid the pediment up and under the existing metal flashing and fastened it off. For the trim legs, Solid Gold treated radiata pine by Claymark was used. Prior to installing it, the carpenters rabbeted its inside edge, then ran a bead of sealant down the inner edge of the pediment (above left) and the existing clapboard and onto the unit’s frame. They set the jamb trim in place (above right). With the new trim and pediment secured with finish screws, they ran another bead of sealant down the clapboard-to-trim junction. A narrow piece of beveled clapboard was then installed underneath the sill, gapped to allow any water to escape from the sill “pan” flashing.

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