Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

Much like a house, before I installed the finishes, I routed BX conduit all over the trailer for outlets and switches.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

For my main overhead lighting when running off “shore power” (plugged in from the house or pole) I have two fluorescent fixtures mounted on the ceiling.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

The fluorescent lights are switched by the side entry door.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

There’s a quad outlet at the rear of the trailer so when the back door is open I have easy access to a plug for powering my table saw, chop saw, router or any other corded tools I may need.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

There are dedicated outlets for my compressor so when I plug in the trailer all outlets are energized, including outlets for all of my battery chargers for the cordless tools.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

In addition to the 120-volt circuit I have a separate 12-volt DC system installed.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

To power the DC system, I placed a deep cycle battery amidships down low over the axles (good central location and out of the way).

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

Attached to it is a “battery tender”, or trickle charger, to help top off the battery when the trailer is plugged in to shore power.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

To further help with charging the deep cycle battery, I installed a 100-watt solar panel on the roof.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

The solar panel is connected to a Solar Charge Controller. On sunny days the panel inputs about 14-volts of direct current to charge to the battery and has available USB ports for charging devices. This entire solar setup is available online for about $120.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

I wired in a bank of 12-volt DC L.E.D. lights so that in a situation where I may need to retrieve something or just work in the trailer without 120-volt power, I have lights available.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

My 12-volt lighting is switched to make getting lights on in the dark even easier.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

I live in a very humid climate and mold / moisture are issues. My trailer came with a roof vent but I upgraded to a thermostatically controlled vent fan (available from any camping store) with an “in use” cover allowing it to be open all the time and keep water out for about $100.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

The fan is connected to the 12-volt DC system and runs as needed to keep air circulating. I keep mine set to exhaust air out. It can be switched to pull air in as well. The 12-volt DC systems also powers a GPS tracking device, more details on that later.

Slideshow: Trailer Power Setup

110-volt power access from house or pole to trailer lights it all up most of the time. Future plans include externally mounted lights (one 12-volt DC motion- activated and one 120-volt switched work light).

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