Landscape Lighting, continued
Low-Voltage Fixtures
We accomplish these goals with low-voltage lighting systems
that are easy to shop for, and that you don't need an
electrician's license to install. The systems use 12-volt
direct-current power, supplied by a transformer that plugs in
to an ordinary GFCI-protected 120-volt house outlet. (We do ask
for dedicated outlets to serve our transformers, and of course
those circuits have to be run by a licensed electrician.)
We'll get to transformers in a moment; first, let's take a
look at lights. The business end of the system starts with the
fixtures. These fit into three broad categories: path lights,
spotlights, and specialty lights (Figure 4).
| |
Figure
4.Most elements of a
nightscaping design are accom-plished with a
combination of path lights and spotlights. At left, the
author has blended both fixture types into his
arrangement of stone terraces, walls, steps, and
walkways. Specialty lights allow subtle custom touches
in every kind of space. Above, a deck is lit by
fixtures recessed into railings. |
Most path lights are mounted on short, vertical stems and
are designed to cast light down onto a small section of walkway
or path. These fixtures usually receive a bayonet-style lamp,
like the old taillight lamps that cars used to have. Dozens of
lighting companies offer many minor variations on the classic
path light theme, and some offer more elaborate or decorative
fixtures that set the hardware into a small statue or other
object. Simple fixtures work fine, but it's worth placing them
with care. I avoid lining up the fixtures, which can create a
"runway effect," unless the client happens to like that.
Spotlights can be used for almost any application, including
uplighting, downlighting, backlighting, and highlighting. They
are typically applied for the visual effect, but a spotlight
placed as a downlight in a tree or other elevated spot can also
be used to light pathways.
Specialty lights are really a variation of the path light or
spotlight idea, refined for a particular location or use. Some
fixtures are designed for mounting into steps or walls; we use
those as path lights or spotlights. We also have fixtures that
we can mount under deck railings or recess into the railing.
These highlight the railing detail, as well as shrubs or
sculptures below them, and they cast a subdued light into the
nearby walking or sitting areas. Other available options
include strip lighting (similar to holiday lights) and
underwater lights.
We can flexibly mix and match all these broad fixture types in
various designs, to meet the needs of the particular case. The
only rule is to choose what works: To get the look and function
I want, I use spotlights to light pathways, path lights to
highlight plants and sculptures, and rail and step lights to do
either.
Low-Voltage Lamps
The core components in any system are the lamps (the bulbs
that go into the fixtures). Twelve-volt lamps are more powerful
than you might think: On average, a 12-volt lamp will put out
as much light as a 120-volt lamp of three times the wattage. So
for example, a 25-watt 12-volt lamp will throw as much light as
a 75-watt 120-volt lamp.
Certain lamps fit certain types of fixtures (Figure 5), so
your choice of lamp will actually dictate the type of fixture
you can use. You start the design by considering which of
several main lamp types will best achieve the intended effect
in each location you intend to light.







Figure
5.The Kichler fixtures
shown above — two specialty deck fixtures (top
row, left), two downlights (top row, right), and two
spike-mounted spotlights (bottom row, left) — are
just a sampling of the huge variety offered by
manufacturers. Different fixtures accept different
types of lamps, so the author first decides which kind
of lamp is best for a particular case before choosing
the fixtures for that location. The largest lamp in the
group at bottom right is a PAR-36 parabolic reflector
lamp, the workhorse for flood and spot applications.
The smaller lamps next to it are, top, a two-pin (or
bi-pin) MR-16 mirrored reflector halogen lamp, which
throws a bright white beam for good color rendition and
works well for precision spotlighting; middle, a
bayonet-base lamp; and bottom, a wedge-base
lamp. |
Par-36 lamps are the same
as your car's headlights: They will throw a beam a long way and
are great for uplighting trees. Available wattages range from
15 to 50 or more watts, with beam spreads ranging from 5x5
degrees up to 69x69 degrees. They are extremely versatile for
use as spotlighting, highlighting, path lighting (when hung in
a tree), and shadowing. Par-36 lamps are maintenance friendly
and last quite a long time if they're not over powered. Their
one drawback is that they don't last as long as halogen
lamps.
MR-16 lamps are
high-intensity tungsten halogen lamps, which give a truer white
light. These are excellent for highlighting bricks and other
colors at night. We use MR-16s on occasion in all the same
situations where we use Par-36 lamps. Smaller MR-11 and MR-8
lamps are also available and are useful when the application
calls for a compact fixture. One of the advantages of an MR-16
is that they are small and easy to conceal. These lamps must be
in a watertight fixture, and it's worth choosing high-quality
fixtures that won't corrode shut and make access impossible
when it's time to replace a lamp.
Bayonet lamps are used
mostly for path lighting, but they can also be used for
low-level spotlighting (on a sculpture, for instance). One
problem with these lamps is that they're not intended to be
sealed into a fixture; the heat generated will make them fail
prematurely. We specify halogen and gas-filled (xenon) lamps
because of their longer life and brighter light. T-series lamps
such as T-3 and T-5 are either wedge-base or bi-pin and come in
a large wattage range.
Fiber optics. Recently,
there has been a movement toward using fiber optics for
landscape lighting. The technology brings two major advantages:
First, the emitting fixtures are extremely small and easy to
hide. This works especially well with waterfalls. Second, there
is only one source lamp to worry about. The illuminating unit
houses a powerful halogen lamp (typically either 150 or 250
watts), and the fibers are run off of that. You can run
virtually unlimited fibers from the illuminator, as long as you
can fit them in front of the lamp.
But there are disadvantages. The illuminator is a sealed unit
with a very hot lamp. All units incorporate a cooling fan, and
because the fans make noise, you need to isolate them from
gathering spaces. Also, if you cut a fiber, you can't make a
splice that will completely restore the fiber's light
transmission ability — you need to replace the entire
fiber. (Low-voltage wire, by contrast, can be spliced at the
point of damage.) Finally, fiber-optic systems cost quite a bit
more than ordinary low-voltage systems. Don't let cost deter
you from giving them a try, however, especially in wet areas.
Fiber optics are a safe way to run lighting to pools and
ponds.
There has been a lot of recent hype about LED lighting for
landscapes. We've been flooded with advertising emphasizing LED
technology's extremely low power usage. One flyer I received
claimed that a 1-watt LED lamp would provide as much light as
an 18-watt bayonet lamp. I was intrigued enough to order some
lamps and test them in our display gardens. After experimenting
with multiple lamps in various configurations and color
combinations, and after many discussions with the manufacturer,
I concluded that LED products have a long way to go before they
will be effective for my kind of work.