Compact, lightweight, and powerful, they're the perfect
tool for running screws — but wear your earplugs
Think of a cordless impact driver as a cross between an impact
wrench used by auto mechanics and a conventional cordless
drill. Though I had heard about these tools, I had never seen
anyone using one, so I was skeptical. I drive a lot of screws
as a remodeler, and I thought nothing could be faster or more
effective than my cordless drill. But when I was given the
chance to test several of these tools for JLC, it didn't take
me long to realize that a cordless impact driver is a superior
tool for running screws. The tool's impact action makes driving
3/8-inch lags feel like you're driving drywall screws, and
because impact drivers are about a third smaller than cordless
drills, they fit in many places where a drill can't go. Plus,
unlike my bulky 18-volt drill, they hang easily from my
toolbelt.
The Tools
Generally, impact drivers are available in the same voltages
(9.6 to 18) as cordless drills. To take advantage of the tools'
compact size, I limited my test to 12-volt models from DeWalt,
Hitachi, and Makita. I also tested 14.4 drivers from DeWalt,
Makita, and Milwaukee. Even though these tools are in the
middle of the pack in terms of voltage, I didn't find any
fasteners they wouldn't turn. Their power and ease of use are
remarkable.
Chucks and bits. All the
drivers I reviewed have hex-shaped chucks designed for standard
1/4-inch hex bits, but you aren't limited to just square and
Phillips. Most accessory manufacturers also offer nut drivers
and other specialty bits. With an adapter, you can also use
standard 1/4- and 3/8-inch drive sockets for lag screws and
bolts. Manufacturers suggest using heavy-duty impact sockets
for safety.
Although you can use an impact driver for drilling holes by
fitting it with a hex-shank drill bit, the impact action makes
this slow and inefficient. Don't expect it to replace your
cordless drill.
How Impact Works
Unlike a cordless drill that relies on a motor and
transmission to create torque, an impact driver uses a
hammer-and-anvil mechanism inside the tool housing. As the
hammer spins and strikes the anvil, it spins the driver bit in
short bursts. This creates enough power to drive and even snap
lag screws. Aside from increased torque, the design has another
benefit. Anyone who's ever driven a long screw with a drill
knows how much torque is transferred back to the operator, and
how the bit tends to cam out of the screw head unless constant
heavy pressure is applied. With an impact driver, the torque
transferred back to the operator is noticeably reduced, and you
don't need to apply as much forward pressure to the bit. This
not only makes the tool less tiring to use, but it's especially
helpful when you're working in confined spaces or hanging from
a ladder.

How an impact driver works.A spinning hammer hits against an anvil
connected to the chuck. The inertia created by the spinning
hammer gives impact drivers their impressive torque and makes
driving screws less tiring, but it's also what creates the
tool's biggest drawback: noise.
The drivers I reviewed don't start impacting until they
approach 15 in-lb of torque. At low torque, the impact driver
will actually run short, self-drilling screws faster than a
slower-spinning conventional drill-driver. What's cool is that
the tool does all of the adjustment. You don't have to flick a
switch or change gears when switching from low torque to high.
Just pull the trigger, and the tool does the rest.
Noise Factor
This nearly effortless driving action does have one
significant drawback: These things are loud. The extra noise
comes from the internal hammer striking the anvil up to 3,000
times a minute. While it's not as bothersome outside, earplugs
are a must when you're running the tool close to your head.
When I was doing some work in a local doctor's office, the
noise distracted the staff and patients so much that I had to
switch to my cordless drill. Keep this in mind if you work in
places where noise might be a problem.
Run-Time Tests
I used the impact drivers for more than two months, on jobs
ranging from decks to kitchen cabinets. In addition, I did some
run-time tests to see if there were noticeable differences and
if the 14.4-volt tools did any better than their 12-volt
counterparts. I also wanted to see what would happen to motors
and gearboxes when they were subjected to continuous
operation.
Before testing, I charged and discharged the batteries four
times to condition them. I then put them to the test by driving
21/2-inch galvanized screws and 1/4x4-inch lag screws into
pressure-treated lumber. I stopped the test when I noticed a
decrease in performance. Amazingly, out of the hundreds of deck
screws I drove, I only had five cam out, stripping the screw's
Phillips head. Running the screws was almost effortless, though
I did go through a few Phillips bits.
The Verdict
After a couple of months of using impact drivers, I was
hooked. The ability to effortlessly drive screws from odd
angles or while stretching is reason enough to get one. During
a kitchen cabinet installation, I was able to screw two face
frames together inside a 9-inch wall cabinet where my cordless
drill would never have fit. And because the tools are so much
lighter than a big cordless drill, I could hang one from my
belt all day and not really notice.
My Picks
The best run-time winner and my favorite for running the heavy
lags and driving large numbers of deck screws was the
Milwaukee. It felt good in my hand and was nicely balanced. For
working in confined spaces, the 14.4-volt DeWalt is a good
choice; it's the same size as the 12-volt drivers, but it packs
a little more punch. For lighter work and intermittent use, I
liked the Hitachi because its built-in belt hook kept the tool
by my side, whether I was wearing my toolbelt or not. Hitachi's
built-in bit storage is handy, too.
Jeremy Hessis a carpenter with D.E.R. Construction
in Bainbridge, Pa.