CONTENTS:
Easier Air Sealing
Metabo Power Grip
Permit Protector
Rabbit Planes
Joist Hanger Helper
Easier Air Sealing
According to many building scientists, the average American
home leaks so much air that it's equivalent to cutting a
2-foot-diameter hole in an exterior wall. So naturally,
building comfortable, energy-efficient homes means trying to
plug as many holes as possible by air-sealing doors and
windows, mechanical penetrations, and cracks. Polyurethane foam
is the most effective and versatile material for this task, but
using straw-dispensed spray foam has always frustrated me. The
process isn't difficult or time consuming, but plastic straws
bend and clog while oozing blobs of foam everywhere. Plus, any
unused material left in the can is wasted because the unsealed
nozzle soon becomes hopelessly plugged.
I've tolerated this mediocre dispensing system for years
because I wasn't willing to spend $100 for professional
dispensing equipment -- until recently, when I bought a
Flexible Products foam gun (Flexible Products; 800/800-3626,
www.dow.com/greatstuff/pro). A pro-duty
foam gun, like those used by insulation and weatherization
contractors, probably doesn't look like any other tool in your
collection. It most closely resembles a gravity-feed spray gun
used for automotive painting. The tool allows greater precision
than straw-dispensed cans, because the amount of material
released is adjustable, and the slim, 12-inch nozzle helps with
placement. In addition, slip-on syringes and flexible plastic
nozzles allow you to seal even the smallest, out-of-the-way
holes and cracks. And you don't have to finish a can all at
once either, because the valve for dispensing material is at
the end of the nozzle. So foam left inside the gun is never
exposed to air, preventing it from hardening. It's easy to ruin
a gun, however, if you remove an empty can without thoroughly
cleaning the tool or reloading it with a new canister. While
most manufacturers offer aerosol solvents for periodic
cleaning, even the best solvent is unlikely to fix a gun
clogged with hardened foam.

With a slim nozzle and adjustable flow,
a professional dispensing gun fits in tight spaces and
minimizes the irritating blobs and bombs of foam common with
straw-dispensed cans. The foam will keep for 30 days when left
on the gun, but leaving it on longer could ruin the
tool.
Gun-dispensed foam usually comes in larger, 20- to 33-ounce
cans that screw on top of the gun, upside down. The inverted
can helps get the maximum yield from a can and, according to
the manufacturers, provides a more ergonomic design.
Professional guns really shine when sealing around doors and
windows because the adjustable flow prevents overfilling and
bowing door jambs and window frames. And their longer nozzles
seal cracks along the band joist more easily than the shorter
nozzles found on straw-dispensed cans or tubes of
caulking.
As an added incentive, several years ago foam makers started
offering pressurized polyurethane-based construction adhesives
that are dispensed using the same guns, eliminating the
repetitive strain of squeezing perhaps dozens of quart-sized
tubes of subfloor or drywall adhesive. The adhesive bead is
uniform and goes down quicker than traditional construction
adhesive. If you have any doubts about how well it sticks, just
get some on your hands.
After making the switch, I'm hesitant to go back to
straw-dispensed foam: Not only is the gun-dispensed foam
neater, but it's also less expensive and there's less waste. A
pro-style can costs about $16 to $20 and is the volume
equivalent of maybe six cans of the stuff sold at the home
center for about $30. At that rate, it doesn't take long for a
$100 dispensing gun to pay for
itself.
Metabo Power Grip
If you think cordless screwdrivers are exclusively for
DIYers, you probably haven't seen Metabo's new pro-duty Power
Grip (Metabo, West Chester, Penn.; 800/638-2264,
www.metabousa.com). It won't replace your
collection of hand screwdrivers, but its 4.8-volt motor and
slow turning speed make it perfect for installing accessories
like switch plates and locksets. In a JLC test, it worked
especially well for adjusting and aligning a kitchen's worth of
cabinet doors.
The ergonomic Power Grip weighs a fraction (1.4 pounds) of
what a cordless drill weighs, making it ideal for the kind of
tasks that a cordless drill is too big for. The variable-speed
screwdriver spins at a maximum of 230 rpm with 44 inch-pounds
of torque. A well-placed and comfortable rocker-type trigger
controls forward and reverse without a separate switch. A
magnetized spindle accepts 1/4-inch hex-shaped bits with a
3/8-inch keyless chuck available as an option. A variable
clutch prevents stripping or overtightening, and while the
product literature claims only a five-position clutch, I
counted 20 detents, offering enough precision for any small
driving task. In addition, turning the clutch to the drill
position locks the spindle, permitting hand turning of
difficult fasteners.
Probably the coolest feature of the Power Grip is its shape.
The uniquely contoured housing and small size make it
comfortable to use in awkward locations and easy to keep in
your tool belt. And the slim nose avoids scratching finishes or
damaging materials like a fast-spinning chuck could. But if
you're looking to drive long fasteners into hard materials,
better look elsewhere -- this isn't that kind of tool.
The Power Grip Kit includes a plastic carrying case and two
4.8-volt rechargeable batteries. The little batteries take a
couple of hours to charge up but last a surprisingly long
time.
The Power Grip is handy but expensive. The street price of
$139 is almost as much as the price of a quality cordless
drill. But if you find yourself needing a little more precision
than your cordless drill can offer and spinning a screwdriver
by hand isn't your idea of efficiency, the Power Grip might be
the solution.
The Power Grip's small and ergonomic
housing a slow turning speed make installation of accessories
like wall plates drawer pulls easier than with cordless drill.
large rocker switch controls 4.8-volt motor without separate
forward reverse switch.
Permit Protector
Keeping track of job-site paperwork can be easier with a
Permit Caddy (Conarroe Companies, Lafayette, Colo.;
303/665-3140,
www.permitcaddy.com), which organizes all
of your receipts, lists, and permits in one location, while
protecting them in a rugged plastic sleeve.
With three large pockets, a couple of alligator clips for
posting lists or schedules, and holders for business cards and
notepads, the bright yellow organizer has a place for
everything. It's clear that someone familiar with residential
construction came up with the idea, or at least offered some
design input. For example, the grommets used to hang the caddy
are spaced at 16 inches, and document pockets shed water,
preventing damage to important papers. The caddy even includes
small suction cups for mounting on a window and Velcro straps
for attaching a set of plans. It costs $30.
The Permit Caddy provides plenty of
protected storage for all your important construction documents
and keeps everything within easy reach. Built-in handles mean
you can take it to meetings or building inspector's
office.
Rabbit Planes
Scarf joints on long runs of base or crown can be tricky to
conceal, often leaving a slight ridge at the transition.
Typical solutions are sanding or taking off another sliver on
the miter saw, but shaving off such a small amount is
challenging and sanding is slow and tedious. In addition, the
joint is often inconsistent, transitioning nicely in one area
and leaving a ridge in another.

Now, instead of laborious sanding and fitting, there's a tool
made especially for the task. The Bunny Plane (Collins Tool
Co., Plain City, Ohio; 888/838-8988,
www.collinstool.com), which takes its name
from its larger cousin, the rabbet plane, is Dave Collins's
latest invention and one of the coolest hand tools I've seen.
(Dave is the same carpenter who invented the Collins Coping
Foot, a replacement shoe that converts a typical jigsaw to a
freehand coping saw.) The Bunny's design is not new: Violin and
guitar makers have used similar tools for centuries. What's new
is the tool's introduction to the construction site.
The tiny rabetting plane comes in two versions: The first has
a flat sole designed to smooth flat surfaces or outside curves
(see above), while the second has a 3/4-inch-radius, rounded
sole to work on inside curves, like cove moldings. Five
different blades are sold to complement the rounded plane,
allowing a precise fit on virtually any small radius.
These planes are so small -- about 3 inches long overall --
that I feared they would be difficult to hold and control. But
the ramp where shavings are ejected also acts as a finger hold,
and the Bunny's tail handle fits comfortably in your palm. This
tool is all about close-tolerance machining; the fit and finish
make knife changes and adjustments easy. Tiny knurled knobs
loosen easily yet hold the blades securely. The 1095 tool steel
cuts cleanly and can be resharpened.
I used the tool for cleaning up joints on crown molding, base
cap, and scotia, improving the quality of my work while saving
a little time. Remodelers and trim carpenters would do well to
consider a set. While the tools aren't cheap, $140 for the
complete set, including a holster, seems like a fair price. It
could be argued that a gouge or carving chisel would do the
same thing for less money, but the Bunny Planes excel at their
task. If you don't lose them to an envious coworker, they're an
investment that should last a lifetime.
Although the plane is tiny, about 3
inches long, tool surprisingly comfortable to use. long handle
fits in palm of hand, and blade housing acts as a finger hold.
Knurled knobs allow for easy changes yet hold without
slipping.
Adjustable for joist hangers up to 12
inches, the JoistMate keeps hanger straight and frees one of
your hands starting nails. Using red alignment mark behind
wingnut speeds layout, because you need make only layout
mark.
Joist Hanger Helper
When setting joist hangers, I've always used a joist
trimming to gauge their proper placement. The problem is being
able to hold everything in place while starting a nail. With
one hand occupied with the scrap and hanger, and the other with
a hammer, there are no hands left for holding the nail. Most
hangers have those little tabs to temporarily hold the hanger
to the ledger, and sometimes they actually work. Other times, a
lag screw or bolt securing the ledger is in the way, a knot
flattens the tab, or the little tabs just aren't long enough to
get a good bite. A new tool from Starr Products Inc. makes this
whole process easier and faster.
The T-shaped JoistMate (Starr Products Inc., Bellingham,
Wash.; 888/378-2777, www.starrproducts.com) holds the hanger
with powerful magnets while an adjustable fence rests on top of
the ledger and places the hanger at the correct depth. The tool
spaces the vertical legs correctly to receive the joist, and it
adjusts to set single-joist hangers from 2x4 to 2x12. The
magnets have enough grip to hold larger, double or triple
hangers, but with those you have to space the vertical legs
yourself. This tool is a time saver and costs only about
$20.