Lighting

Lamps vs. Fixtures

The term lamp typically refers to the bulb (incandescent, fluorescent, or halogen), while fixture refers to the housing that is hard-wired into place. The design and wattage of the bulb determine the intensity of the light. A combination of the bulb’s design and the shape and reflectance of the fixture’s stationary reflector (which is integral with the trim of a recessed fixture) determines the beam spread (below).

Figure: Beam Spread and Intensity

Beam spread is expressed in degrees of an aiming angle for a given fixture. For recessed ceiling fixtures and pendants, this angle ranges from about 9 degrees for a very narrow spot to 55 degrees for a wide flood. The width of the beam determines the spacing of fixtures. For example, in Beam Spread and Intensity, above, an 18-degree light beam placed in the ceiling 5 ft. from a countertop has a spread of about 20 in.; at the floor, its spread is 36 in. in diameter. A 55-degree beam would have a 78-in.-diameter spread at the floor.

Low-Voltage Fixtures

Low-voltage lighting comes with either halogen or xenon lamps.

Halogen lamps. Halogen fixtures accept PAR “R” lamps, or the smaller MR16 lamps. Par lamps are a good choice in recessed kitchen fixtures. The MR16 are popular in pendant and track fixtures for task and accent lighting throughout the house. The many design options, and the crisp, white light of all halogen lamps allow for dramatic lighting effects that are unmatched by other lamps. Slightly smaller MR11 lamps that plug into undercabinet light strips are also available.

Typical tungsten halogen lamps are 50% brighter per watt than incandescent lamps, and they last about twice as long as incandescent bulbs (below). 

Figure: Lumens per Watt

Xenon lamps. Xenon lamps look like fat auto fuses, and come in lengths from a few inches (in under cabinet puck lights) to several feet (in long undercabinet strips and fixtures). Xenon lamps tend to be more expensive than halogen lamps, but they burn as bright or brighter per watt than halogen, burn about 30% cooler, and tend to last even longer than halogen lamps.

Both halogen and xenon lamps cast strong beam patterns and hard shadows. Plan carefully when using them for task lighting. Pay particular attention to overlapping the beam spread, and keep them positioned in front of people working at a counter, sitting at a table, or reading in bed. 

In many low-voltage fixtures, the lamps can rotate and move up and down within the housing. This allows more precise control over the aim of the focused beam of light by moving the bulb, not the reflector. Recessed ceiling fixtures can be used to light not only horizontal surfaces like floors and counters, but to “wash” walls or art objects and paintings. Different trim kits are available to either condense or diffuse the light.

Dimmers. Like fluorescents, dimming low-voltage lighting requires special dimmer switches. These cost more per unit than standard dimmers for incandescent lights. The number of lights that can be ganged together on one dimmer is limited, as well.

Fluorescent Fixtures

Ballast. Fluorescent fixtures include a small step-up transformer, called a ballast, which delivers a high transient voltage (about 300 volts) to the lamp (compact fluorescent bulbs or tubes). When selecting a fluorescent fixture, look for one that uses an electronic ballast to eliminate the hum and flicker associated with magnetic ballasts.

Standard fluorescents don’t work well below 50°F. In unheated spaces in cold climates, use fixtures with cold-rated ballasts (these are designated HO or VHO ballasts and require matching lamps). 

Temperature and color. Most objections to fluorescent lighting can be successfully addressed by specifying the right temperature and Color Rendering Index, or CRI. Indoor fluorescents should have a color temperature of 3,500K or lower, and a CRI above 80. (Note: Manufacturers tend to designate color properties differently on packaging and displays; the CRI is sometimes difficult to determine; if in doubt, dig through the product literature or call the manufacturer.)

Compact fluorescent lamps in recessed fixtures should be about 3,500 Kelvin (they range from 2,700 to 6,500 Kelvin) to approximate the color of halogen lighting that may be used elsewhere in the room. Doing this ensures that all like-colored objects will look the same.

Fluorescent tubes. Fluorescent tubes work well in kitchens because of their large surface area and high light output per watt. There are many types of fluorescent tubes, and some are better than others. T8 lamps (“T” for tubular, “8” for 8 eighths, or 1 in. in diameter) offer excellent light color options and have a narrow overall profile — lamp and fixture typically measure about 11/2 in. Smaller T5 (5/8-in.-diameter) lamps are difficult to find in any color other than “warm white” and “cool white,” both of which are poor choices. 

Task Lighting

The goal of lighting design is to provide each room with a balance of ambient, task, and accent lighting. A balanced lighting plan diminishes glare and minimizes stark shadows by 1) spreading the light evenly throughout a room with ambient lighting; 2) concentrating a brighter, even light at work areas; and 3) focusing spot lighting on artwork or collections, or directing a wash of light to accent the planes and shadows of architectural details.

When designing a room’s lighting scheme, begin with the task lighting, then fill in ambient and accent lighting as needed.

Task areas are best lit with bright, continuous, or overlapping zones of light. Incorrectly placed task lighting can cause glare, especially when light from the ceiling hits a reflective surface, such as shiny fixtures or glossy paper. 

Locating Task Lighting

Place task lighting so the beam falls across the work area from one or both sides of a person’s gaze. Avoid aiming the light straight on: The closer the beam falls in line with the direction of a person’s gaze, the more likely it will create glare. 

Spread out the light sources so the beams overlap at the level of the work plane (below). The more evenly the light is spread, the more it will diminish glare and minimize stark shadows.

Figure: Placing Recessed Fixtures

Kitchen Lighting

Overall, kitchens need at least two or more watts from incandescent bulbs, or 1.7 fluorescent or halogen watts, per square foot.

Although track lights work well for accent lighting, they are usually a poor choice for ambient and task lighting in a kitchen because they are difficult to place without creating shadows, and unless they can be placed between exposed ceiling joists, they will leave the upper reaches of the room in shadow.

Recessed Fixtures

Some recessed fixtures, especially the high wattage ones, cannot be placed next to insulation. Unless the light is rated “IC” (insulated ceiling) or equivalent, all insulation must be removed from the area determined by the requirements of that specific fixture.

Figure: Lighting Coverage of Recessed Fixtures

Match bulb to trim. Recessed fixtures typically accept PAR “R” lamps, as well as standard “A-lamp” incandescent bulbs. The trim, as well as the bulb, determines the light output of the fixture (above). Using the wrong bulb in a recessed fixture can result in ineffective, wasteful lighting. Advise clients about the correct bulbs to use with recessed fixtures (below).

Figure: Bulbs and Trims for Recessed Fixtures

Black step baffle trim absorbs about 50% of the light generated by the lamps, greatly reducing their efficiency. Black trim also contrasts with the typical white ceiling and draws the eye upward.

Instead, use white trim, mirrored Alzak, or clear specular reflectors. White trim still absorbs about 30% of the light, while Alzak allows virtually all the light to exit the can. Also, the mirrored surface reflects the color of the ceiling, causing it to “disappear” better than white trim.

Undercabinet Lighting

Undercabinet lighting provides the bulk of task lighting in a kitchen. Mount fixtures as close as possible to the front face of the wall cabinet (below). A 2-in. recess in upper cabinets will make it easier to conceal the fixture than the standard 11/2-in. recess. 

Figure: Undercabinet Lighting

Halogen hockey-puck lights, and xenon or fluorescent strip lights, work best. Separate incandescent lamps are difficult to place under cabinets and generate excess heat that may be undesirable in a kitchen.

Fluorescents used for undercabinet lighting must be rated for contact with combustible surfaces, and have safety sleeves over the tubes to reduce the chance of breakage.

Halogen pucks can be fit into the standard 11/2-in. recess below upper cabinets, and served by a transformer located remotely (usually in one of the cabinets). Shadowless illumination requires many lamps (about one every 18 in.) to provide continuous coverage.

Sink Lighting

Undercabinet lighting will not work above a sink unless there is a shelf at upper cabinet height. Above a sink with a window above it, use a pair of adjustable ceiling fixtures, arranged so the beams cross the sink area to reduce glare (below).

Figure: Sink Lighting

Island Lighting

To provide task lighting for islands or kitchens without wall cabinets, use a series of small (2 or 3 in. in diameter) pendant-fixtures mounted at eye level. It’s a good idea to provide separate switches for these areas so the area can be “de-emphasized” when not in use.

As with an island, the kitchen table may be treated as a task area. Use decorative pendant lights controlled by a dimmer for variable atmosphere.

Bathroom Lighting

Don’t skimp on wattage in the bathroom; when using incandescent lamps, each fixture should provide at least 100 watts.

Vanity Lights 

A single fixture mounted above the mirror will cast strange shadows on a viewer’s face. It’s better to use two fixtures flanking the mirror for cross-illumination.

The best cross lighting is provided by two vertical lights flanking the sink. If using vanity strips with bare globes (G-lamps), use a white lamp to soften the illumination; clear bulbs produce too much glare  

Placement. The center of light bars should be placed at eye level. Usually this is about 62 or 64 in. above the finish floor (measured to the center of the electrical box). For a single sink vanity, the lights should be spaced about 30 in. apart.

Wattage. Plan on a total of between 75 to 150 watts per side. This means that each bulb in a three-bulb fixture should be between 25 and 50 watts. The range depends on the overall brightness of the room: The more reflectance coming off the walls, vanity top, and fixtures, the less wattage is needed. 

Consider putting vanities on a dimmer, so the homeowners can adjust the light intensity for themselves. A client may wish to apply make-up, for example, in low light that simulates a nighttime setting.

Avoid using fluorescent light soffits with either acrylic diffusers or egg-crate louvers over the vanity. These fixtures illuminate only the top half of a person’s face. A white countertop can help reflect some light from below, bouncing some illumination onto the lower part of the face, but it is a poor choice.

Shower Lights

Make sure that any light fixture used in a shower is approved for damp locations. (UL-listed fixtures suitable for damp locations have a blue label.) For showers, consider waterproof recessed low-voltage halogen fixtures with adjustable trims. These fixtures usually take an MR16 lamp. 

Ambient House Lighting

Ambient light (or fill light) is the soft, general illumination that fills a room and softens the shadows. As a rule, the fixtures (often called luminaires in the lighting industry) used to provide ambient light should not draw attention to themselves. Ambient light is best provided by opaque wall sconces, cove lighting, torchiere floor lamps (which point upwards), or dish-shaped hanging fixtures (called indirect pendants).

Wall Sconces

Wall sconces should be opaque, not transparent, so that the light will be softer and will not draw the eye to the fixtures. Sconces almost always come in pairs, and they typically are used to flank a door, fireplace, or console table. Two sconces are adequate to provide ambient light in an average size room, but four will be much more effective at providing even, balanced lighting.

Cove Lighting 

Cove lighting is installed near the ceiling, behind a cornice or ledge. Suitable fixtures include strip lights with miniature incandescent or xenon lamps, compact fluorescents, or standard-length fluorescent tubes.

For cove lighting, plan on using either xenon or fluorescent lamps, between 20 to 30 watts per foot for either type. Place the lamps behind the cove as shown in the figure below. 

Figure: Cove Lighting Lamp Locations

If a room has a 9-ft. ceiling, cove lighting can be installed between 12 and 24 in. down from the ceiling. In a room with an 8-ft. ceiling, cove lighting is typically installed 12 in. down. (Note: This may leave the center of some rooms rather dark; the solution here is to include an indirect pendant fixture in the center of the ceiling.)

Living Rooms 

Living rooms typically include portable lighting — table lights for reading and floor lamps for ambient light that can be moved as the furniture placements are moved. If the living room is large, and furniture is located in a cluster in the middle of the room, floor outlets may be required. In addition, plan on a few recessed adjustable fixtures for accent light near the most likely locations for wall art. Installed lights should be controlled by a dimmer, allowing for low-level ambient light when the other lights in the room are switched off for television viewing.

Dining Rooms

In rooms with chandeliers, balance the chandelier with ambient light from wall sconces, floor lamps, or cove lighting. Most dining rooms also require accent light. 

A fixed chandelier makes it hard to move the dining table to a different location. For more flexibility, consider a decorative fixture that hugs the ceiling. Or select a pendant light on a pulley system that allows the fixture to be raised and lowered. A third option is to skip the chandelier entirely and simply use recessed adjustable fixtures to illuminate the table.

Bedrooms

To make it easier to go through drawers, a bedroom needs good ambient light, usually provided by wall sconces or an opaque pendant fixture. Most bedrooms have insufficient ambient light; when in doubt, plan for more rather than less.

Task lighting for reading in bedrooms is often provided by bedside lamps, but another option is to use recessed adjustable fixtures on the ceiling above the bed. To reduce glare, adjust the fixture on the left to provide light to the person on the right and vice versa.

If the location of the bed is known, some people like all of the light in a bedroom to be controlled with three-way switches, located near the bed as well as near the door. However, be aware that other customers may feel this clutters the wall or would be inconvenient if the bed is moved.

Entries, Hallways, and Stairs

Entries. If the entry includes a mirror (and many do), avoid using recessed downlights, which make people look like gargoyles. Instead, flank the mirror with a pair of wall sconces to provide ambient light. A painting, on the other hand, should be accented with a recessed adjustable fixture.

Hallways. Recessed downlights are also a mistake in a hallway. Since the light comes out cone-shaped, the upper quadrants of the hall fall into darkness, making the hall look like a bowling alley. Light a hallway with a combination of wall sconces and recessed adjustable fixtures highlighting art on the walls. 

Stairs. Avoid using recessed ceiling fixtures above stairs, where setting a ladder to change a bulb is awkward. Recessed fixtures can work well, however, in a flat ceiling above a landing. Stairs can also be lit with shallow wall sconces.

In combination with recessed ceiling lights on the landings, step lights can also provide good illumination for safely navigating stairs. Step lights — small fixtures mounted flush with the walls — should be placed about 9 in. above the tread. Most models have a louvered face plate that throws the light down onto the stair treads. Plan on using one light every three steps. Most step lights take a 20-watt halogen lamp that can be left on at night. 

Accent Lighting

For accent lighting, use PAR halogen bulbs in adjustable recessed fixtures, or MR16 halogen amps in pendants and track fixtures, for lighting artwork, architectural details, or collectibles. For artwork, MR16 lamps are preferred because they throw their heat back and away from the art.

Miniature track lights or low-voltage linear lamps mounted in an overcabinet location can throw subtle accent light on the ceiling. They’re sometimes also mounted in the cabinet kick space for a “floating cabinet” effect or inside glass-front cabinets.