Insulating With Spray Cellulose
- Continued
Drying time. Unless the
cellulose is installed too wet, there's no need to worry about
nail pops or other drywall problems. In our climate, we find
that insulated walls can be closed in within 24 hours of
spraying. This seems to hold true for us even during the
occasional spell of damp rainy weather. The residual moisture
will migrate out through the wall through vapor diffusion, and
the cavity will dry completely over the next month or two. The
borate content of the cellulose prevents any mold growth during
that time.
Filling in With Fiberglass
Cellulose is difficult to use in some areas. Kneewall framing,
for example, is often left open on the back side, leaving
nothing to spray against. In such cases, we resort to carefully
fitted kraft-faced fiberglass. We also make limited use of
batts around rim joists, blocking, and some difficult-to-spray
corners.
This approach might upset cellulose purists, but it's a
necessary compromise in our competitive marketplace. In our
market, many customers are unwilling to bear the cost of
installing the mesh or rigid-foam backing needed to make
spraying possible in that situation. Even though sprayed
kneewalls are thermally superior, we'd rather see a customer
invest in airtight ductwork and a duct blaster test instead if
there's no room in the budget for both.
Air and vapor barriers.
Except in kneewall areas, where the batt facing provides a
localized vapor barrier, we don't use a vapor retarder or
additional air barrier. We feel that spray cellulose contains
so few voids that there's little convective movement to allow
moisture-laden air into the wall. The combination of an outer
layer of housewrap and sheathing and an inner layer of drywall
is enough to control air penetration.
Interior Partitions
Where interior soundproofing is called for, we often spray
interior partitions as well. Many of the general contractors we
work with tell us that cellulose performs much better than
fiberglass batts in this application. In addition to being
three times as dense as the batts, spray cellulose leaves fewer
voids, which helps resist sound transmission at electric boxes
and other small openings (Figure 8).
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Figure
8. Spray cellulose is ideal for sound insulation
in partition walls containing plumbing and wiring,
because it contains few voids and seals small openings
that allow sound to pass from room to room. |
Mesh and drywall. Many of
our customers install drywall on one side of interior walls to
provide backing for us to spray against, and we've never had
any problems with excess moisture soaking the drywall. That
approach does require the drywall sub to make an extra trip to
the job site, though. If that's too much trouble, we can staple
spray mesh to the studs instead. The key to using spray mesh
— which is actually not a mesh but a porous, nonwoven
material something like the filter fabric used in footing
drains — is to get the material taut, so it won't belly
out beyond the studs and complicate life for the drywall
crew.
Recycling
The excess material that the scrubber shaves off the wall is
referred to as "recycle." The traditional method of dealing
with it is to shovel it into clean garbage cans and dump it
back into the hopper on the truck (Figure 9). This works well,
although it can be a lot of work if the truck is some distance
from the house; if that's the case, we'll often assign a fourth
member to the crew.
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| Figure
9. The low-tech method of dealing with excess
cellulose is to collect it in clean garbage cans (top)
and hand carry it to the hopper (center), where it's
mixed with virgin material for reuse (bottom). Newer
equipment includes a vacuum system that eliminates most
hand work. Either way, it's important to start with a
clean, well-swept floor to keep sawdust and other
debris from contaminating the insulation. |
The easy way — which we're able to use with the newer
of our two truck-mounted spray rigs — is to suck up the
recycle with a powerful vacuum hose that sends it back to a
dedicated recycle hopper. This predampened cellulose is
automatically blended with the virgin material in a separate
dry hopper. In addition to saving a lot of labor, this makes it
easier to maintain a consistent moisture content, which
improves quality control and keeps dust down. The only
disadvantage is higher cost: Not counting the trucks, our older
rig, without the vacuum system, cost us about $18,000, while
the newer one set us back $40,000. That's a big investment, but
we — and our customers — are convinced that the
results are worth it.