Installing a Cylindrical
Latchset
- Continued
Locating the Strike Plate
Most boring jigs come with a center marker, which is the
quickest way to position a lock strike. The marker is a simple
steel cylinder that fits in the latch bore (Figure 3). The
sharp point centered on the face makes a dimple on the jamb,
which marks the spot to drill for the latch. But this method is
not always exact, and I use it only if the strike plate has a
thin piece of metal projecting at a right angle from the back
of the latch hole. If the latch fits loosely in the strike,
this tongue can be bent slightly to snug the door up against
the stops.
| Figure
3. A center marker works well for quickly
locating the lock strike, but is not entirely
accurate. |
While I use a center marker most of the time, for
stain-grade jambs I prefer to install the lockset and use the
latch to find the exact location for the strike. Stick a small
piece of masking tape on the strike and start by placing the
strike over the latch, which should just touch the shoulder of
the strike. Use a pencil to mark a line down the face of the
strike where it meets the face of the door. Next, shut the door
and mark a line on the jamb with the pencil riding the face of
the door, then mark the jamb at the horizontal center of the
latch (Figure 4). Open the door and extend the horizontal mark
across the face of the jamb, then hold the strike centered on
that horizontal line. Finally, line up the vertical pencil
marks on the strike and the jamb, and trace the outline of the
strike on the jamb.
| |
| Figure
4. Holding the strike plate over the latch
(above, left), the author marks the edge of the door
onto a piece of masking tape placed on the back of the
strike plate. He then closes the door and marks the
centerline of the strike by eye (above, right),
extending this line horizontally across the jamb. The
author then lines up the vertical line on the tape with
the edge of the door, centering the strike hole over
the horizontal line (right) to lay out the strike plate
mortise |
Again, I prefer to use a router and template for the strike
mortise — it's cleaner and faster, and it eliminates
having to hammer on the jamb, which could change the margin
between the jamb and the door. If I've done everything right,
the dull "thunk"of the latch falling into the strike just as
the door comes up against the stop is sweet.
Gary Katz
is a finish
carpenter from Reseda, Calif., and author of The Door
Hanger's Handbook (
Taunton Press).