Please enter your email address to reset your password. An email will be sent with instructions to create a new password. If you do not receive an email, please check your spam folder.
Don't have an account?
Are you a subscriber but don’t have an online account?
Register for full online access.
Would you like to receive email from Hanley Wood Media’s family of brands and partners?*
Note to existing JLC Subscribers:
If you choose to use your Social Network, please ensure that the email address associated with your Social Network matches the email associated with your JLC Subscription.
Thank you for creating your JLC Online account! Your JLC subscription purchase has begun in a new window.
If you see this message, make sure your popup blockers are disabled and click here to relaunch the subscription window.
Congratulations! Please check your e-mail for confirmation to gain full access to JLC Online's free features.
Please create a nickname to post in the forums.
A.If it’s a
structural joint, the best glue is epoxy, because
it has the best gap-filling ability, without
compromising overall joint strength. You still have
to bring the two surfaces as close together as you
can, so I’d use 5-minute epoxy and hold
the parts together.
For nonstructural gluing (like gluing a
rosette), my first choice is always cyanoacrylate
glue, used with an activator. Use a thick-viscosity
cyanoacrylate and apply it to one surface and the
activator to the other. The big downside of the
cyanoacrylates is that you need to get the fit
right immediately, as the bond is instant and
fussing with the fit will compromise the
Caulks Adhesives and Sealants
Does the moisture content of the soil in a footing hole affect how bagged concrete...
Exterior doors take a beating from both frequent use and the elements. Here's how to...
Is using a grounding screw required when working with metal electrical boxes? And what...
Please read our Content Guidelines before posting.
2014 Hanley Wood Media, Inc. All rights reserved.