My crews used to install gable trusses by nailing a piece of
two-by lumber to the gable wall of the house in such a way that
it stuck up high enough to catch the top chord of the truss
when we rolled it. The two-by, which was braced to a stake in
the ground, prevented the truss from going beyond 90 degrees
and toppling off the end of the building.
Then I came up with a trick that makes it faster and safer to
install these trusses. Instead of standing a single truss
against a vertical two-by, we create a wide stable base by
nailing spacers between the first two trusses and standing them
as a single unit. As long as it's not too windy, the truss unit
will sit upright on the walls.
Next, we tack the unit to the top plates, quickly roll a couple
more trusses, and install permanent sway braces. At this point,
the first group of trusses is solid enough that we can install
the rest without worrying they'll topple like dominoes. If we
are especially concerned about stability, we'll gang three
trusses instead of two.Richard Birchis a framing contractor in Selma,
Inexpensive Clampsby David Frane
If you've ever installed split columns around a structural
post, you know how hard it is to come up with enough fabric
band clamps to glue up more than one or two at a time. It
always bothered me to leave clamps on overnight, because who
knows if they'll be there the next day.
I ran across these columns on a job site in Saratoga, Calif.
The carpenters who installed them used oversize hose clamps to
glue them up. Big hose clamps aren't cheap, but they're easy to
remove and less likely than band clamps to walk off the
Easy Bullnose Cornerby Gary Katz
When I saw Norco's "conversion corner" at the JLC Live show, my
immediate reaction was, "Why didn't someone think of this
sooner?" I could kick myself for all the three-piece corners
I've mitered, or the hundreds of dollars I could have saved on
premanufactured bullnose corners. Not to mention the time spent
lining up and sanding mismatched profiles!
With these plastic corners, all you do is adhere them right
above the baseboard height, or just below the crown, and with a
little mud work you've got a nice-looking chamfered edge that
transitions from round to square. Then back to carpentry as
usual.Gary Katzmoderates the
Fnish Carpentry Forum at