- Sitework
- Concrete
- Footings
- Anchors
- Structural Slabs
- Poured Walls
- Concrete Block
- Pier Foundations
- Insulated Foundation Systems
- Waterproofing and Dampproofing
- Retaining Walls
- Drainage
- Radon Abatement
Simple Pier Foundations
Simple pier-and-grade-beam foundations can support decks, porches, pole barns, and small home additions, providing good insulation and ventilation (below).
Figure: Simple Pier Foundations

Sizing Piers
For sizing pier diameters for small foundations, the rule of thumb is “1 inch per foot of span.” Thus, a deck that spans 8 ft. will stand comfortably on 8-in.-diameter piers, while a deck that spans 10 ft. requires 10-in.-diameter piers. For spans longer than 12 ft., add a second row of piers and a second girder at the center of the joist span.
For calculating concrete amounts, see Estimating Concrete for Piers.
Pier Footings
Footings for shallow piers (less than 6 ft. deep) will help prevent the pier from settling. The pier footing should be as thick as the pier’s diameter, with sides that measure twice that much. So an 8-in. pier, for example, should rest on a footing that’s 8 in. thick and 16 in. square, while a 12-in. pier should rest on a footing that’s 12 in. thick and 24 in. square.
Simple Pier Foundation Details
- Use strap ties to anchor piers to a triple pressure-treated 2-by girder. The ties wrap around the center stick in the built-up girder and lap over the top. (The girder looks better if the ties aren’t exposed on its face.)
- Install a poly vapor barrier over the ground beneath the joists, and run it up and staple it to the inside of the girder. This helps prevent water vapor from building up in the shallow space beneath the joists.
- Additional moisture control can be added by cantilevering joists 2 in. beyond the rim of the girder, and installing a 2-in.-wide standard metal soffit vent on the underside of the overhanging joists.
- Finished grade should slope well away from a pier foundation — about a slope of 4 in. in 10 ft.
Engineered Pier Foundations
Pier-and-grade-beam foundations work where slopes are too steep for conventional stepped footings, where soils are weak, or where expansive soils would move conventional footings (Engineered Pier Foundation, below). Piers can penetrate deep through unstable soils and reach stronger soil or rock, where a combination of end bearing and soil friction against the sides of the pier supports the weight of the house. Grade beams transfer house loads onto the piers.
Figure: Engineered Pier Foundation

Engineering
A soils engineer and a structural engineer are generally necessary to design this type of foundation and to supervise or inspect construction.
Pier Dimensions
Depth and diameter of piers are calculated based on soil characteristics and building loads. Piers may be anywhere from 5 to 20 ft. deep or deeper, depending on site conditions. Pier diameters are typically 10 to 12 in. Piers are generally spaced from 5- to 12-ft. apart. Of course, in seismic zones, on steep sites, and in areas with extreme soil conditions, piers may need to be much larger and spaced more closely.
Grade-Beam Dimensions
Beams are generally a minimum of 6 in. wide and 12 in. deep (Grade-Beam Section, below), but can be much larger (Engineered Pier Foundation, above), depending on loads and spans. A grade-beam may slope to conform to site contours, in which case a pony wall is typically framed over the beam (see Figure: Full-Height vs. Half-Height Foundation Walls in Stepped Foundation Walls).
Figure: Grade-Beam Section

Reinforcement
Reinforcing steel must also be sized and installed in accordance with engineering calculations. Large (12-in.-diameter) piers should have at least four pieces of vertical rebar, creating rebar cages that tie into horizontal rebar in the beams (below).
Figure: Pier-to-Grade-Beam

Void Forms
If soils are expansive, space must be created under the beams to allow soil to expand without stressing the structure. This is accomplished with cardboard boxes placed at the bottom of the form (Engineered Pier Foundation, above). In less extreme cases, expanded foam (not extruded) can be used to form beams; the spaces in the foam will give a little to absorb slight expansions.
Anchor Bolts
Anchor bolts should be cast into the beams. In places where cripple walls are needed above grade-beams to create a level elevation for floor framing, the spacing between anchor bolts may need to be closer than usual (consult the engineer on this detail). In addition, horizontal anchor bolts may be required to secure the rim joist of floor framing (Grade-Beam Section, above).
Backfill
Grade-beams should be backfilled with a well-compacted granular fill, and perimeter drainage should be installed that drains to daylight (see Drainage).