For vertical seam work, the temperature needs to be just right: if the iron is too hot, the solder starts running away too quickly off the tip; and if the iron is too cold, it won’t get sucked back underneath the top piece, weakening the weld. Also, this where having a sharp tip really pays off. Starting at the bottom…
Kyle Diamond For vertical seam work, the temperature needs to be just right: if the iron is too hot, the solder starts running away too quickly off the tip; and if the iron is too cold, it won’t get sucked back underneath the top piece, weakening the weld. Also, this where having a sharp tip really pays off. Starting at the bottom…

We use a pyramid-tipped, acetylene-fueled soldering iron for our roof and gutter work; propane models and other types of tips are available. Regardless of the iron or tip used, soldering requires some prep work. Make sure that the tip is clean and that the four facets are flat and meet at a sharp point; otherwise it will be difficult to control the flow and direction of the solder. We use a grinder with a metal wheel to flatten the facets, then we sand them using an orbital sander with 80-to-120-grit paper.

Light the iron and keep it on a low setting so it heats up slowly. When it's hot enough, "tin" the tip on a scrap piece of copper. Spread flux, then melt enough solder to spread evenly on all four facets of the tip. Tinning makes for a smooth flow of solder when working a seam.

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