Planing the hinge
stile. To avoid costly mistakes, the "X" and all
the scribe lines must always point toward the inside of the
door bench. To keep this straight, imagine that the bench is
just like the doorstop on the jamb. The hinges will then be
installed with the barrels pointing away from the door bench.
Also, the door plane should always bevel in the same direction
— down toward the inside of the bench.
Again, it’s important to hold the fence tightly
against the face of the door so the plane doesn’t rock
4. To avoid confusion when beveling the stiles,
always work with the X facing toward the work bench.
Make several passes with the plane, taking a small
amount of material each time and holding the guide
firmly against the face of the door to avoid a wavy
reveal (top). The last step is to tip the plane to ease
the edges (bottom).
Otherwise, the bevel might vary and cause an ugly wave in
the margin between the door and the jamb.
Watch the scribe line carefully. If it isn’t parallel
to the edge of the door, slowly plane until the line and the
edge of the door are parallel, then plane closer toward the
line with successive passes. Never bury the cutter or try to
cut too much on one pass. There’s no hurry, so just make
smooth passes that slowly approach the scribe line. I like to
just leave the line, then finish by tipping the plane at an
angle and easing the edge of the stile.
Lock stile prep.
avoid having to move the door too many times, I mortise the
hinges before planing the lock stile. But the lock stile
planing process is the same. The biggest hurdle is cutting a
consistent bevel. Otherwise, the gaps will be too big, or the
door will rub against the jamb or may not even shut. Check the
angle frequently by placing a square across the bevel at
various points along the stile. On a 1-3/4-inch door with a
bevel of about 3 degrees, the bevel should fall away from the
square a little more than 1/16 inch.