Rather Not Tile Over
Laminate
To the Editor:
Regarding the article
"Tiling Over a
Laminate Countertop" (3/03): How much time and money are
saved by tiling over laminate tops? At that stage of
demolition, pulling the laminate tops and replacing them with a
CDX plywood base not only gives you a more predictable surface
to work from, but allows you to strengthen the base cabinets if
needed, as well. It also gives you the freedom to change the
sink size and configuration. The value and long-term durability
of this approach far outweighs the benefits of tiling over an
existing laminate surface.
Mitch Maggetti
Maggetti Construction Inc.
San Jose, Calif.
Decking Tips
To the Editor:
We enjoyed the Milwaukee JLC Live show. Here's a tip for deck
builders to help lay a tight, straight deck faster.
We build with very wet deck lumber here in southern Wisconsin.
When we lay the deck boards, we fasten the first one to the
straightened end joist where we want to start the run.
Next, we prepare and lay out 19 or 20 5/4x6 boards, lining up
the ends against the building. None are fastened yet. We use
two 10-foot-long, 3/4-inch black iron pipe clamps to squeeze
all of the deck boards tight together. We place the clamps
one-fourth of the board length from the ends, checking the
finished end for alignment and measuring at the clamps to be
sure the courses are staying parallel. The ends of most deck
boards are narrower than the middle from drying out, so
clamping at the ends would create a bulge in the middle.
It's okay to have some gaps at the ends of the boards. We
double-check the measurements and add clamps if necessary. We
then snap lines for the screws, predrill, and screw. We leave
the fourth board from the far end loose and pull it out when we
advance the clamps. We may also leave the unfinished ends loose
if this is a joist that will need to be straightened
later.
We lay the next set of boards, 17 plus the 3 from the first
set that we tighten the clamp against, and repeat the
procedure. At unfinished edges of the deck, we snap a line, cut
off the waste, and straighten the joist before screwing into
place. This method works on diagonally laid decks, also.
The photo below shows a clamp at the end of the deck boards to
bring the last board flush at the far edge of the deck.
Dave Karr
Dream Builders
Beloit, Wisc.
Solar Incentives
To the Editor:
Regarding the item "New Incentives Spark Solar Electric
Resurgence" (In the
News, 5/03), while incentive programs in various states,
especially California, have indeed led to relatively large
increases in sales and installations of photovoltaic (PV)
panels in the U.S. in recent years, the federal income tax
credits for residential solar systems expired in 1985, not
1980. Nearly all of the solar systems installed during the late
'70s and early '80s, for which the owners took advantage of
those tax credits, were solar thermal systems used for heating
water and for space heating. Data collected by the DOE's Energy
Information Administration (EIA) indicates that sales of solar
thermal collectors for residential applications in 1986 were
about a quarter of what they were in 1984. Shipments of PV
cells for sale in the U.S. dropped by about 30% in 1986
relative to shipments in 1985. It's difficult to say whether
that decrease is entirely attributable to the expiration of the
tax credit, since many PV cells and panels are not used in
residential applications. Shipments of solar thermal collectors
for residential applications have remained fairly flat since
1986, while domestic shipments of PV cells have steadily
increased since then.
Another source of information on incentives for solar systems
in the U.S. is the "Database of State Incentives for Renewable
Energy," which is available on the web at
www.dsireusa.org. Your readers may also be
interested in the free publication "A Consumer's Guide to
Buying a Solar Electric System," which is available on the web
at
www.eere.energy.gov/consumerinfo/factsheet.html
or from the EREC by calling 800/363-3732.
Thanks for the opportunity to provide some
clarification.
Paul Hesse
Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse
(EREC)
U.S. Department of Energy
Not As Easy As It Looks on
TV
To the Editor:
It seems to me that the airwaves have become congested with
do-it-yourself radio and television shows. This trend is having
a profound effect on the residential construction industry and
I'm sure the insurance industry as well. Many do-it-yourself
renovations are substandard and a nightmare for the next
homeowner. How much are these substandard renovations costing
insurance companies?
While it is true that some homeowners are handy —
even very handy — they are not professional
tradespeople. DIY programs often use rating systems to express
the difficulty of a particular project. These ratings can lead
a homeowner to think that a renovation is easy. As a small
contractor, we receive several calls each week from
panic-stricken homeowners whose renovations have gone wrong.
What can they expect when their apprenticeship has consisted of
an hour-long seminar at a box store?
We are among several contractors we know of who charge an
estimate or consultation fee. It used to be that our "free
estimates" were turning out to be "get free ideas" sessions for
the DIYers. We often wasted six or seven hours between the home
visit and pricing and writing the quotations. No more.
I think that we need to do more to educate the public on what
a qualified tradesperson actual is. They have no idea of the
years spent apprenticing. My father-in-law has been a finishing
carpenter for 56 years and tells me that he stills learns
something new every day.
Sandy Scapillati
Queensway Tile & Marble
Ottawa, Ont.
Masonry Innovation
To the Editor:
I was very happy to see that an American mason contractor is
finally doing what has been done in Germany for years
("A Masonry Chimney
in Six Hours," 6/03). It is ironic that this is happening
after I have retired from the GC business. I would recommend
that every mason and concrete contractor spend a week looking
at what the contractors do in Germany. There is still a lot of
handwork but also a lot of specialized equipment that makes
masonry work faster and easier. If you are a framer, stay home:
Almost all homes are masonry.
C. W. Caldwell
via e-mail
Corrosion Exfoliation
To the Editor:
I was impressed with the ingenuity of Rick Rossi and Keith
Knickerbocker, who came up with the innovative precast concrete
chimney system ("A
Masonry Chimney in Six Hours," 6/03). One minor quibble:
The authors appear to embed aluminum flashing in a mortar joint
of the chimney. Aluminum in contact with concrete or mortar
will react with the alkali hydroxides in the cement to cause
expansive corrosion of the aluminum. This is likely to result
in the long-term failure of the flashing, and the corrosion
exfoliation may force the joint to widen. Copper is virtually
inert with respect to concrete and mortar and would be a much
better flashing material for a long-lived installation.
Carl Mezoff, P.E.
Stamford, Conn.
Less Bravado
To the Editor:
Despite the water and air infiltration testing that every door
and window at Pella goes through, according to Chuck Kaskiewicz
of Pella
(Letters, 6/03),
I had a Pella sliding door that leaked at the upper miters a
dozen years ago. It damaged the homeowner's hardwood floors,
and Pella paid quite a bit to have them refinished. The fix
involved flashing that covered the headpiece of the door and
the miters. So why not less bravado and accept the possibility
of imperfection in even the best of products by making
allowance for the possibility of leakage, as Joe Lstiburek
recommends?
Bob Jordan
via e-mail
Hats Off to Reusers
To the Editor:
My hat is off to Mr. Criner and Mr. Stemler and all others
like them ("Time to Clean the Garage? Head to the ReStore,"
In the News,
4/03). Starting a surplus and salvage store for construction
materials is an exceptional idea.
John Walden
Sustainable Energy Program
National Center for Appropriate Technology
Butte, Mont.
ANSI Spec Is Helpful
To the Editor:
I really enjoy your magazine and the many good problem-solving
tips it offers. However, in the article "New Water Heater
Standard Will Save Lives"
(In the News,
6/03), you say there is a new ANSI standard, but you didn't
give it. The number would have helped. I want to be sure when I
purchase one in the near future that I do have the most current
ANSI number and to see if the manufacturer says he meets it or
not. I'm sure the salesman won't have the slightest idea.
Thanks.
R. Jary
Fort Worth, Texas
Ted Cushman responds: You raise a good point. The existing
stock of water heaters manufactured without the new
spark-arrest technology can still be sold and installed until
the inventory is used up, so you can't assume a unit on the
shelf complies with the new rule. The new standard designation
is "NSI Z21.10.1-2001." Note also that the rule revision
applies only to atmospherically vented units for now.
Power-vented water heaters won't come under the new standard
until July 1, 2004, and commercial models don't have to comply
until July 1, 2005.
Oversight
We failed to mention that the article "Poor Man's HRV"
(Backfill, 6/03)
was adapted with permission from an article that first appeared
in Energy Design Update (800/638-8437 for subscription
information).
— The Editors