Please enter your email address to reset your password. An email will be sent with instructions to create a new password. If you do not receive an email, please check your spam folder.
Don't have an account?
Are you a subscriber but don’t have an online account?
Register for full online access.
Note to existing JLC Subscribers:
If you choose to use your Social Network, please ensure that the email address associated with your Social Network matches the email associated with your JLC Subscription.
Thank you for creating your JLC Online account! Your JLC subscription purchase has begun in a new window.
If you see this message, make sure your popup blockers are disabled and click here to relaunch the subscription window.
Congratulations! Please check your e-mail for confirmation to gain full access to JLC Online's free features.
Please create a nickname to post in the forums.
A.Bruce Abernathy, a stair builder in Niceville, Fla., responds: First, keep in mind that the stair code doesn’t apply if the attic is used only for storage. There’s nothing in the code about drop-down attic stairs, for example. But you’re wise to cover the bases now, rather than have to rebuild later. (A local builder informed the inspector that the space above a garage he was building would be used for storage. The inspector didn’t buy it: When he saw that the “storage space” had finished oak flooring and crown molding, he red-tagged the stairs.)
In my opinion, straight stairs are the most easily navigated, and the fewer winders the better. But if you don’t have the space, you don’t have the space. Your layout should meet code; I’ve included a page from the Stairway Manufacturers Association’s interpretation of the IRC, which shows a variety of winder configurations, including one similar to yours (illustration, below).
You can build your stair directly from your plan. First make a full-scale drawing and transfer the layout to the surrounding wall framing. Then use what I call a riser beam, where the risers are 2x8s ripped to match the rise, supported by studs or other framing at each end. I cut the treads so that they are flush with the face of the lower riser beams and glue and screw them to the bottoms of the upper riser beams. I then add extra support under the upper riser as needed.
Q.What is the purpose of tar-papering a roof other than to keep water out until the...
Codes and Standards
Latest LIRA report would have tailed off further had a previous indicator not been...
International Code Council
Q. I have read conflicting reports about the use of housewrap. Does the building code...
Strict building codes and the preparedness of millions of Chileans have been credited...
Are ultraviolet (UV) lamps in an HVAC system an effective way to disinfect the air and...
Please read our Content Guidelines before posting.
2014 Hanley Wood Media, Inc. All rights reserved.