Easy access to all job documents is the key to bringing projects in on budget and on time. A project manager tells how he organizes the paperwork so that critical job information is always available on site. Read more
By combining time-honored post-frame construction techniques with modern roof trusses, this Rochester, N.Y., builder-remodeler was able to save the cost of a concrete foundation while giving his clients the look of a traditional barn. Read more
Electrical Code Update
A veteran electrician gives you a leg up on your inspector with this summary of the latest NEC changes. Read more
One way to ensure a dry basement is to coat the foundation with a waterproof membrane. We look at the available options and explain how to prepare for and apply them properly. Read more
Estimating by the square foot saves time, but sacrifices accuracy unless you're careful. We explain how the shape of the structure affects the square-foot price of everything from framing to finishes. Read more
Q: What is a good, durable, transparent finish for a bare radiant slab? I’ve tried Glitsa over colored concrete. The finish looked great initially, but was not water-resistant. A year later, there was a fair amount of delamination and flaking. How should I refinish the floor? Would a polyurethane finish bond better? Also, for the future, should new concrete be acid-washed before applying a coating? Read more
Q&A: Installing Crown in a Finished Room
Q: I’m installing a lot of crown molding in a finished home, and wondering whether it’s better to prepaint the crown and just touch up the nail holes, or paint it once it’s in place? Read more
Q: I was hired to refinish a basement game room built in 1936 in a house on the shores of Lake Michigan. The T&G paneling in the room was badly warped and the bottom 3 feet were moldy and partly rotted. I removed the paneling to find that it had been installed directly over the poured foundation on furring strips embedded in the concrete. On hot, humid days the bare concrete sweated so much that water trickled down the wall. I checked during a rainy period to establish that there were no foundation leaks. Then I proceeded to insulate the wall and the floor, installing 2x2 pressure-treated furring to the concrete with 1 1/2-inch rigid foam placed tightly in between. I sprayed foam in all cracks and at wall-to-wall and wall-to-floor corners. I stapled up a 6-mil plastic vapor barrier, then installed drywall. I also installed a high-volume exhaust fan controlled by a humidistat. Now, three years later, there’s a new problem: mold growing on the drywall at the base of the walls and in the corners of the room. What should I do? The owners want a 4-foot-tall pony wall with a display shelf on top. I plan to stud-frame this and fill the stud cavities with insulation, hoping that will help. I also wonder if I should have killed the preexisiting mold with bleach before insulating the room. I would appreciate any ideas on how to cure this problem. Read more
Strategies for increasing job referrals Read more
Defining ""substantial completion"" Read more
Using folders to organize your hard drive Read more
Every year, we keep our eyes peeled for products that solve common job-site problems in a unique or inventive way. This year's collection has something for every phase of construction. Read more
Site-built chop-saw stand Read more
Leaky power sander, chimney flashing in steel roofs, tools for cutting fiber-cement, Win95 alternatives Read more
