Dutch-lap siding was face-nailed with 8d SS ring-shank nails, the heads flush with siding and placed within 2 inches of the edge of each board.
Large penetrations were blocked with Boral; head trim was run over jamb trim. The fan unit’s flange was set in sealant.
Windows (and doors) at horizontal siding locations were trimmed out with Boral; head trim was run over jamb trim (left), and the jambs run past the sill trim (right). The Boral siding expands and contracts significantly less with temperature changes than vinyl, wood, engineered wood, and fiber-cement siding. Here, the siding was butted to the trim with no gap.
Boral 1-by outside corner trim was installed with stainless steel screws 16 inches o.c. Auto-body filler was used to fill the nail holes (left). The Dutch lap siding was nailed off 14 inches o.c. along snapped lines (right).
Frieze-board trim was installed at siding-to-soffit junctures. A gutter system (left), as well as a band of stone around the whole building greatly reduced back-splashing onto the siding and the fiberglass-reinforced plastic protection barrier at grade (right).
Finishing up, hole filler and any raw Boral were spot primed and painted. Gaps were sealed with urethane-based, paintable caulk, followed by a finish coat of Sherwin Williams Resilience; the painters rolled it and then brushed it.
