Q. On a jobsite the other day, an old-timer was using a curved-claw hammer. Does that style of hammer have advantages over the ubiquitous straight-claw hammer?
A. Carl Hagstrom, editor of WoodWeb.com, in Montrose, Pa., responds: Though once a staple in every carpenter’s toolbox, hammers have, for the most part, become old school, with the wide variety of air nailers that are available now. Given that today’s finish nailers can set nails with no danger of leaving “paw prints,” I’m not sure anyone even needs a finish hammer. Regardless, here’s the perspective from this old-timer—I’ve been swinging a straight-claw hammer since 1972.
Curved-claw hammers do have some advantages over straight-claw hammers. For one, curved-claw finish hammers weigh less than straight-claw framing hammers: typically 16 ounces as opposed to 20 ounces or more. Also, a curved claw lets you pull a nail with minimum damage to the board—a plus for finish carpentry (see photo, below). Finally, curved-claw hammers don’t have the “accidental scar” potential that a straight claw has. Think about backing into a cabinet with your tool belt on: Would you rather have a curved surface or the end of a straight claw touch the cab?
Curved Claw Nail Pulling
But with the titanium-headed hammers weighing in at a mere 16 ounces, weight isn’t as big a deal anymore. And a straight-claw hammer is still a must for framing and demo work—it has more leverage and more punch for sinking large nails quickly than a finish hammer does. Also, if you keep its claws relatively sharp, it can serve purposes beyond nail pulling. You can hack away material, “spear” the end of a joist to lift it, and as the job lore goes, save yourself from taking a ride off a roof by burying the claw in the sheathing on the way down.
Thankfully, I’ve never enjoyed the opportunity to test that last attribute, but on many occasions, I have hooked the claw over the edge of the most recent course of roof sheathing to pull myself up for setting the next course. Then there’s the hammer toss—try that with a curved claw! And most importantly, it’s much easier to open a bottle of beer with a straight claw then a curved one.
Bottom line, curved claws should be considered just for finished interior work, and straight-claw hammers for the rest. If you have to pick just one, though, the straight claw wins every time.
